Australian Geographic

Kayaking the Gordon River

AGS-sponsored kayakers capture the hidden wilderness of Tasmania’s Gordon River and its once impassable gorges.

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“IGO OUT THERE to get in touch with the land, to get in touch with myself. When you get out there, you don’t get away from it all. You get back to it all. You come home to what’s important; you come home to yourself ” – or so said late Tasmanian conservati­on hero Peter Dombrovski­s.

Dombrovski­s and fellow wilderness photograph­er Olegas Truchanas were the inspiratio­n that had led AGSsponsor­ed adventurer­s Ro Privett,

Dave Matters and Dan Kozaris to find themselves precarious­ly balanced on the banks of the Gordon River in early 2016, ready to set off on a difficult white water kayaking expedition.

The team was about to paddle down the Gordon River Splits in the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park, part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area.Thankfully, the outflow from the upstream Gordon Dam was turned off, transformi­ng the normally thundering perilous rapids into something more manageable, or so they hoped.

They had abseiled down to the river with their kayaks in torrential rain, but neverthele­ss were “presented with an awe-inspiring gorge that had us speechless”, Ro says.“The forces of nature were well and truly on show.” The channel was packed with huge, glistening boulders, some the size of houses.

The kayaking was tough going and they were cautious in their approach to paddling as they bounced through many boulder-strewn rapids. Flanking them far above on the high banks were unmistakea­ble Huon pines, among the oldest living trees in Australia.

After a few hectic days of alternatel­y paddling and scrambling by foot over boulders along the riverbanks, they rounded a bend and were presented with the final split, or gorge – the narrowest of them all.“It was a mass of boulders – old, wise and patient – lying at the foot of vertical cliffs...There was a stunned silence between us,” Ro says.

To get into the water here, the crew abseiled once more, while carrying their kayaks, because there were no rock ledges to speak of on the river’s sides. Once in,“I could see both the boys just below me in an eddy – with grins from ear to ear,” Ro says.“I helplessly followed suit as I floated through.We were there. We had made it…It was one of those moments where our hearts agreed; we hadn’t lived many a better day.”

Once back home and able to reflect on their time in the wilderness, Ro said,“We were more fulfilled.We had a clearer understand­ing of our lives and a better connection to both family and friends.We felt whole and had rediscover­ed our passion.”

As Dombrovkis said of Tasmania:“It is a wild land and I think that there is a certain wildness, a certain wild element in man’s nature that is essential to the humanness of man. If man becomes contained, too docile, programmed, then he becomes less human. And this wildness in the wilderness allows the wildness in man an expression.”

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 ??  ?? The rugged landscape of the Gordon River and its splits, or gorges (top), has been shaped by ancient glaciation. Lining the banks are Huon pines, each of which may be up to 3000 years old.
The rugged landscape of the Gordon River and its splits, or gorges (top), has been shaped by ancient glaciation. Lining the banks are Huon pines, each of which may be up to 3000 years old.
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