Tides of change

CRAIG TANS­LEY dis­cov­ers a new restau­rant at Coolan­gatta that’s as much ABOUT DIN­ING OUT as it is about its (great) MENU.

Australian Traveller - - Weekends -

IT WASN’T LONG AGO that the best meal you could have on the Gold Coast was chicken parmi­giana with chips, pro­vided you signed in at the surf club it came served up in. Surfers Par­adise had fancier fare, but who wanted to go there on a Satur­day night among all the 20-some­things out to party? If you haven’t vis­ited the Coast re­cently, you might not recog­nise the place. The beaches are still here, but these days the restau­rants be­side them look like some­body snuck them out of Mel­bourne when no one was watch­ing. Which leads me to a for­mer pan­cake shop, Baskk at Kirra Point. It’s right on the road, but I like that step­ping in­side takes you some­where else en­tirely. I for­get im­me­di­ately that just next door is the cin­ema com­plex that I fre­quented in my teens. It’s boho heaven in here; there’s a huge, open bar where staff mix cock­tails, and a col­lage of mov­ing images play­ing on the walls. The in­te­rior is lime-washed and dom­i­nated by nat­u­ral ma­te­ri­als, like straw throw pil­lows, drift­wood, linen and sea­grass. I feel like I floated in with the tide. There’s a steady stream of good-look­ing pa­trons in fancier clothes than I’m used to see­ing round these parts. I’m here on a Satur­day night; in an hour or so Baskk will morph into a cock­tail bar. But for now, it’s still all about the food. Os­car Wade – who trained un­der Luke Man­gan at Glass Brasserie – over­sees the menu. He’s only 24, which tells you some­thing about the place. I start with blue swim­mer crab with green ap­ple, av­o­cado and home­made crisps, then I or­der from the raw menu – the king fish and scal­lop yuzu-in­fused ce­viche, tor­tilla cu­cum­ber and chilli salad is the best thing I’ll or­der all night. The noise builds. This is a peo­ple-watch­ing Mecca; be­tween cour­ses I’m dis­tracted by the di­ver­sity of types here tonight – from the dandies in their linen pants rolled up above the an­kle, to the shorts and thongs bri­gade. I opt for a charred king prawn pizza, which sounds bor­ing, I know, but the sliced al­monds and the fen­nel kim­chi make it any­thing but. By now, mar­gar­i­tas are mov­ing out thicker and faster than food dishes, the DJ has started up, and hips are start­ing to shake. This part of the Gold Coast’s long been in need of an over­haul, and Baskk is bringing change fast.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Mov­ing images play on the walls; Take a seat at a lime-washed ta­ble; Nat­u­ral touches are a fea­ture of Baskk’s in­te­ri­ors; Cock­tails are mixed at the open bar; Baskk’s young head chef cre­ates world-class food; It all amounts to a...

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.