MADRID REIGN IN SPAIN Situated in Madrid’s Tótem Hotel, Hermosos y Malditos restaurant and cocktail bar (above) embraces the jazz age by paying homage to The Beautiful and Damned, F. Scott Fitzgerald’s iconic novel. hermososymalditosmadrid.com

Before Melbourne’s beloved Stokehouse in St Kilda was ravaged by fire in 2014, the view from the first-floor restaurant was out towards tree trunks. Now, rising sea levels mean diners are looking at palm fronds. Sited on Crown Reserve, the iconic beach pavilion has had many incarnations since its origins in the 1900s as a single-storey tea house, and there were strict new regulations to consider during its re-build. Proprietor Frank van Haandel describes the complexity of the construction as “11 out of 10” with environmental concerns and topographical difficulties front and centre. Architect Robert Simeoni took on the challenge and Stokehouse is now the first of its type to be five-star green certified designed and built.

While the weight of expectation was heavy, its re-birth was never intended to be one of replication. “The previous Stokehouse was everyone’s favourite beach house – so that was at the heart of what we hoped to achieve again. We wanted to deliver a flexible and versatile space while ensuring that customers experience that same Stokehouse feeling – the laidback charm perfect for a relaxed lunch or dinner, overlooking the water, with the same great ambience and energy, welcome feel and generosity,” says Frank.

The first-floor dining room was designed by Pascale GomesMcnabb, with a similar footprint to the original (which she designed in 2010), albeit with a new large bar. While the brutal physicality of the architecture may be different, its heart is the same: cool and collected with classy seaside chic. Executive chef Richard Ousby and head chef Ollie Hansford have mastered a clean, seafood-driven menu with raw offerings, including ‘Sashimi Sundays’.

“We wanted to keep the vestiges of the past that worked, but also create new things and move forward. People have memories of an amazing old heritage building but we also wanted that shock of the new,” says Pascale.

On the ground floor is Pontoon where George Livissianis has created a casual buzzy eatery featuring an American ash bar and shared tables, relaxed banquettes, picnic tables and low lounges. There’s an informal, salty-sea menu with shared dishes and finger food. Outdoor kiosk Paper Fish swings into gear on sunny days.

“Stokehouse holds a place in most people’s memories,” says Pascale. “It’s one of Melbourne’s most famous restaurants.” Some things never change. stokehouse.com.au

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To make the pickled radish, combine the vinegar, sugar and 100ml water in a small saucepan and heat over a medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Set aside to cool slightly.

To make the syllabub, whisk the cream, crème fraîche and lemon juice in a medium-size bowl until thick. Gently fold through the grated wasabi.

Place the white soy sauce in a shallow container. Dip each piece of tuna into the soy mixture to fully coat. Remove tuna from soy and place on a tray. Using a blow torch, sear the top of the tuna until lightly charred and caramelised, leaving the other side of the tuna raw.

To make the soy sesame dressing combine the soy, lemon juice, sesame seeds and wasabi in a small bowl, adding a little extra soy, lemon juice or wasabi to taste. Slice each piece of tuna into 3 slices, brush with the soy sesame dressing.

Spread a small thin amount of the wasabi syllabub along each serving plate. Arrange 3 tuna slices over the top and spoon over some pickled radish. Garnish with a drizzle of wasabi oil and thinly sliced wasabi leaves.

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