Five restau­rant rec­om­men­da­tions in Moscow as FIFA World Cup fever hits Rus­sia

Business Traveller (Asia-Pacific) - - CONTENTS -

With the 2018 FIFA World Cup kick­ing off this month in Moscow, it’s fair to as­sume that a few con­ve­niently timed busi­ness meet­ings have been placed on the itin­er­ary. Whether you’re in town for the foot­ball, or re­ally are just fly­ing in for busi­ness, here are some clas­sic din­ing op­tions to try in Rus­sia’s cap­i­tal city.

BELUGA

Housed on the sec­ond floor of the his­toric Na­tional Ho­tel, Beluga opened at the be­gin­ning of 2017, re­plac­ing the for­mer Ital­ian restau­rant. Moscow isn’t short of places serv­ing caviar, but this has the most ex­ten­sive menu of caviar in the city, as well as Rus­sian and in­ter­na­tional-style dishes.

The de­sign by Anas­ta­sia Pani­bra­tova “was in­spired by the Swan Princess from the fairy tale of Tsar Sal­tan, de­picted on the can­vas of Mikhail Vrubel”. It’s a beau­ti­ful space. The bar counter is in the shape of a gi­ant crys­tal caviar dish, which is a lovely touch, and there are be­spoke chan­de­liers of Lalique crys­tal. At one end, in front of an an­tique mir­ror, is a clever art piece de­pict­ing Rus­sian mod­els in kokoshniks (tra­di­tional Rus­sian head­dresses) tak­ing self­ies. It was cre­ated by an artis­tic duo known as the Re­cy­cle Group, who ex­am­ine con­tem­po­rary cul­ture through a “quasi-ar­chae­o­log­i­cal lens”.

Try the caviar, and maybe Sosva her­ring and an­chovy mousse (650 rubles/US$10), fol­lowed by a main course of salt-baked stur­geon with Abk­haz lemons and thyme (1,600 rubles/US$26) or stewed lamb tongues with bul­gur (920 rubles/US$15).

Open 12pm-12am; Ho­tel Na­tional Moscow, 2nd floor, 15/1 Mokho­vaya str. bld. 1, Moscow, 125009; tel +7 (495) 901 0336; na­tional.ru/restau­rant-beluga

SEVEN

If you are trav­el­ling with your fam­ily, or just want a more re­lax­ing en­vi­ron­ment but with ex­cel­lent food, Seven is the place. The restau­rant’s menu has been de­signed for fam­i­lies; it com­bines dishes of Rus­sian, Euro­pean and Asian cui­sine in a friendly for­mat mean­ing even the fussi­est chil­dren will be happy, while their par­ents can en­joy de­li­cious cui­sine. Sam­ple dishes in­clude chicken breast with “Ro­mano” on the grill and home­made mayo (490 rubles/US$8), and half a Ros­tov duck with Hoisin sauce (890 rubles/US$). The two floors of the restau­rant have been de­signed by ar­chi­tec­tural stu­dio DBA-group, with wood, con­crete, black­ened metal parts, glass pen­dants and lots of green­ery.

Open break­fast week­days 8am-2pm, week­ends 10am4pm; main ser­vice 11am-11pm; Dmitro­vskiy Ln, 7, Moscow 125009; tel +7 (495) 205 0277; sev­en­rest.ru

CAFÉ KRANZLER

Si­t­u­ated in the Ho­tel Baltschug Kempin­ski Moscow, Café Kranzler is named af­ter the leg­endary Ber­lin cof­fee house (once op­er­ated by Kempin­ski). De­spite be­ing re­fur­bished last year, the venue’s moder­nity has been suc­cess­fully dis­guised with styling rem­i­nis­cent of its fa­mous 19th-cen­tury name­sake. You can en­joy so­phis­ti­cated

Euro­pean cui­sine here such as Vi­enna schnitzel (2,200 rubles/US$35) and beef stroganoff (2,000 rubles/US$32) of course, but also Rus­sian favourites such as a three-deck caviar starter – served with three dif­fer­ent Beluga vod­kas (prices vary) and orec­chi­ette pasta with Kam­chatka crab, lemon and red caviar (1,600 rubles/US$26). A dessert of Rus­sian bli­nis with berries, sweet­ened sour cream and vanilla ice cream (700 rubles/US$11) will pro­vide the calo­ries.

Open 10.30am-3am; Ho­tel Baltschug Kem­p­iski, Ul Balchug 1, Moscow 115035; tel +7 (499) 503 0043; kempin­ski.com

KAZBEK

Ge­or­gian cui­sine has a very spe­cial rep­u­ta­tion in Rus­sia, and new restau­rant Kazbek cham­pi­ons this with a mother-and-son team from Tb­lisi run­ning the kitchen. Lo­cated on the third and fourth floor of an old fac­tory build­ing – a space that was a night­club un­til re­cently

– the de­sign of the two-storey restau­rant is a tri­umph. The top floor has aged ceil­ings, col­umns and plenty of green­ery as well as a ter­race with seat­ing for 150 guests and views over the Moscow River and the Radis­son Royal Ho­tel. Try khinkali kalakuri – dumplings with pork and veal (100 rubles/US$13) – as a starter. The mains might be Me­gre­lian khacha­puri – a de­li­cious cheesy bread (590 rubles/US$75), black seaperch with dzhondzholli (980 rubles/US$125) or a chicken shash­lik (690 rubles/ US$88).

Open 12pm-12am; 1905 year Street, 2, Moscow 123022; tel +7 (495) 401 7653; mykazbek.ru

CHESTNAYA KUHNYA

Trans­lated as “Hon­est Kitchen”, this is a mod­ern Rus­sian restau­rant by chef Sergey Eroshenko. The two-storey restau­rant feels like the kitchen of a coun­try house. It’s un­pre­ten­tious, with a Rus­sian tiled stove in one corner up­stairs and sim­ple wooden tables. Chef Eroshenko has also cho­sen to share his love of hunt­ing, with some of his tro­phies dis­played on the walls. But the sim­ple dé­cor be­lies the food, which of­fers great sub­tlety and so­phis­ti­ca­tion. Sam­ple dishes in­clude Dages­tan lamb loin ke­bab mar­i­nated in sweet herbs (920 rubles/US$117); whole Volga stur­geon smoked in a Rus­sian wood stove (1,450 rubles/US$185), and Siberian river fish with for­sh­mak (her­ring) on rye bread (590 rubles/ US$75). Fresh in­gre­di­ents, a friendly at­mos­phere, rea­son­able prices and of course “hon­esty in ev­ery­thing”. Open 12pm-12am; Sadovaya-Ch­ernogryazskaya, 10, Moscow; tel +7 (495) 607 5090; chest­nayakuh­nya.ru

LEFT: Beluga

OP­PO­SITE PAGE: Seven

ABOVE: Café Kranzler

FROM TOP: Kazbek; and Chestnaya Kuhnya

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