Brat

Business Traveller (Asia-Pacific) - - TRIED AND TESTED LONDON RESTAURANTS -

The City of Lon­don’s stupidly high restau­rant bills have been edg­ing east­wards for some time, and Brat is a trendy restau­rant cap­i­tal­is­ing on din­ers who will hap­pily spend £65 (US$85) on a whole tur­bot. But de­spite the prices, this is a friendly, bo­hemian place, set in one of Shored­itch’s re­pur­posed work­shops. There’s as much fo­cus on the wines as the food, and it even calls it­self a “wood grill and wine bar”; there’s a long bar (no reser­va­tions), plus more seat­ing at shared ta­bles for din­ers who’ve booked on­line. Basque-style small plates might in­clude rab­bit, blood sausage and beans, or lan­goustines cooked on the wood­fired grill – the same grill that’s used for cook­ing many of the dishes, from beef chop (£58/US$76 for the large ver­sion) to Dover sole (£28/US$37). Wines are sup­plied by the team be­hind Noble Rot wine bar, and are ex­pertly cho­sen; the se­lec­tion by the glass is ex­em­plary.

VER­DICT For City din­ers who are look­ing for some­thing a lit­tle more in­ter­est­ing than the usual cor­po­rate haunts, this retro-look­ing din­ing room has bags of charm, and good cook­ing that be­lies its hum­ble ap­pear­ance. Guy Di­mond

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