The winemaker who went for Broke
GLENGUIN Estate was planted in the Broke sub-region of the Hunter Valley in the 1980s from stock descended from James Busby’s original 1820s cutttings. Robin Tedder (who became Australia’s seventh Master of Wine in the mid 1990s) came to know about the property from regional stalwart Bruce Tyrrell and promptly saw the possibilities. Robin’s experienced brother Andrew farms the Glenguin vineyard in organic and biodynamic methods to produce small but quality outputs. The recent recruitment of cellar door manager Phil Jones from Canberra sees new energy in welcoming guests to try selected aged releases.
Stonybroke, Shiraz, 2014
Only partially fermented in oak barrels to retain expressive fruit qualities. Immediately damson plum and bluestone gravel aromas mix as sweet-savoury contrast. Dusty chocolate, honeysuckle, violet and raspberry. Earthy but bright plummy example finishing with soft tannins like a kitten’s lick. 300 cases made.
◗ RATING: 8/10 ◗ RRP: $27.50 ◗ ALC: 13.5%
Schoolhouse Block, Shiraz, 2014
The winemaking is ramped up with this cuvee. 40% whole bunch ferment (that is, all the stalks along with the berries), French oak maturation for 10 months. Far spicier than the fraternal Stonybroke derived from the fermentation and the maturation: black pepper, cinnamon and smoky tobacco with a blackberry core.
◗ RATING: 9/10 ◗ RRP: $45 ◗ Alc: 13.5%
Aristea, Shiraz, 2009
Deliberately held back as an aged release. Matured for 12 months in French oak (50% new) along with 40% whole bunch pressing. Dusty, plummy, archetypical Hunter shiraz perfume that wafts proudly of its heritage. Medium bodied, red plum fruit and tart cherry nuances with a touch of cedary oak and spice. Fine tannins that offer potential. 200 cases made.
◗ RATING: 9/10 ◗ RRP: $80 ◗ Alc: 13.5%