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Got a tech problem? We’re here to help.
Crossflow numbers
Q I have a 711M Crossflow block with a T9 casting number on it. Could you tell what would be the maximum safe bore out of this block? Frank Hates Email
A There are myths surrounding the Crossflow casting marks, and a lot of them will be foundry marks — it’s only the part numbers which have real importance.
With T9, or any of the T numbers there is no definitive answer to how far you can go with a rebore. People tend to believe that the higher the T number, the thicker the block, but this has been dismissed by people within Ford, and we’ve seen low T number blocks being bored out and working perfectly well.
Unless you specifically want a 1700, the maximum safe bore on a Crossflow is +0.060 inch (1658cc) rather than go to the maximum which is +0.090 inch (1688cc). Even better, go to +0.040 inch and that’ll give you a rebore to go should the worst happen.
Bulkhead mods
Q How easy is it to fit fifit a more modern engine into a 100E? I’ve been told that it’s easier to fit fifit an engine into the 107E, but as these are all four-doors, it’s a bit of a non-starter for me. I haven’t decided yet if I want to fit a Crossflow, Pinto or an Essex or Cologne V6 — it all depends on which one will need the least work to get in. Geoff Richards Email
A You have to cut the bulkhead no matter what you want to fit, so you’d be better off deciding which engine offers what you want and work around that. You’re right about the 107E, it’s already fitted with the 105E Pre-Cross-flow engine so it’s possible to fit the Crossflow without too much aggro. With the 100E, it’s major surgery.You need to cut out the bulkhead and transmission tunnel and fabricate a whole new one.
It’s a job for the brave, but to help, Old Ford Auto Services supply basic plans for people planning to fit the Pinto which show where to cut the floor and the bulkhead.
It’s one of the worst of the older Fords to tackle — most of the others will take the Pinto engine fairly easily. With the 100E, you keep the original shell but pretty much everything else has to be modified.
RS2000 alloys
Q I’ve been offered a set of Mk2 RS2000 four-spoke rims, but they look very similar to the alloys fitted on a Capri Laser to me. How can I tell the difference? Q Chris Woods Email
A They do look very similar at first glance, and as both types of wheel are the same size and have the same offset, there’s no point getting the tape measure out. But if you know what you are looking for, there are some differences which you can spot quite easily.
On the RS2000 wheels, the shoulder around the nut recess is quite fine and more importantly, the shoulders of the wheel nut holes are flat.
The Laser rims have a wider shoulder around the wheel nut recesses and they use a tapered wheel nut, so the fixing holes have a chamfer. On the RS2000 rim, the year of manufacture will also be clearly cast into one of the spokes.
There are a couple of other wheels to watch out for if you’re new to all this. The Mk1 RS2000 wheel is a 5.5x13 rim (not a 6x13 like the Mk2 RS2000) and there’s also the 6x13 inch Fiesta Supersport wheel, which looks similar but is actually an inset wheel for front-wheel drive.
7x13s on a Corsair
Q I’ve just bought a 1969 Corsair and want to fit a set of 7x13 Ally Cat Rallye Special alloys to it, but I’m struggling to get a straight answer from anyone on what mods I’d need to do to fit them. Jon Whitestone Email
A You need to check the offset (most 7x13s for rear-wheel-drive Ford fitment are around ET0), and it does depend how low the car is, but generally 7x13 wheels with a suitable rear-drive offset — even with the larger 185/60R13 tyres — will fit a lowered Corsair with no rubbing issues.
English options
Q Can you tell me which diff ratios were originally available from Ford for the English axle? Phil Redgrove Email
A Yes, indeed we can. There were six versions, and they are listed below:
There’s also now an aftermarket 3.3:1 crown-wheel and pinion set available from Retro Ford for even more effortless cruising.
To work out which diff you have, it’s quite often stamped onto a tag on one of the bearing caps, but if yours is missing, count the number of teeth on the crown-wheel and divide it by the number of teeth on the pinion.