Meat mar­ket

Colin Fass­nidge in­jects a slice of Sum­mer Bay into his surf and turf, and chats with An­thony Puharich about Aussie soaps, seaweed and the butcher’s pen­chant for budgie-smug­glers.

delicious - - CONTENTS -

Colin Fass­nidge gives T-bone a boost with savoury seaweed but­ter.

A This is the Aus­tralian is­sue, so let’s get one very im­por­tant mat­ter off our chests be­fore we go any fur­ther. Neigh­bours or Home and Away?

C Home and Away is def­i­nitely bet­ter than Neigh­bours. I grew up with Irene, Sally and Mar­i­lyn, which is a bit em­bar­rass­ing be­cause I’ve met all those ac­tors now! A It’s all a bit sad, Fass. Those poor ac­tors.

C Home and Away is the rea­son ev­ery Ir­ish per­son has moved to Aus­tralia. It was the ad for Aus­tralia, with the beach and the sun­shine – it still is.

A I al­ways liked Neigh­bours, be­cause it was the orig­i­nal. Kylie and Ja­son, Craig McLach­lan – they were there first.

C Home and Away has in­flu­enced this month’s dish. I’ve rein­vented the surf and turf. Pic­ture this: I’m an Ir­ish­man com­ing to Aus­tralia for the first time. I get off the plane, head to the beach and what do I see?

A A whole lot of wa­ter that you prob­a­bly don’t even know how to swim in! C Wrong an­swer. Seaweed. Umami. A What’s that got to do with any­thing? C A T-bone steak is the clas­sic Aussie bar­be­cue cut, but steak needs but­ter and but­ter needs umami, so I’ve added seaweed and lemon – flavours usu­ally re­served for seafood – to beef.

A This sounds com­pli­cated, Fass. Re­mem­ber, Aussie bar­be­cues are all about keep­ing it sim­ple.

C It’s so easy – you blend all the flavours into the but­ter, then you freeze the but­ter and just cut a slice off ev­ery time you cook the steak and need some surf on your turf. It’s like you’re sit­ting on Palm Beach. For the chips, I made a salt with dashi pow­der, which is my ren­di­tion of chicken salt.

A Do peo­ple se­ri­ously eat seaweed at home? We don’t have seaweed in Croa­tia. C What a stupid com­ment! A What’s stupid about it? My only un­der­stand­ing of seaweed is that they use it to make ice cream or some­thing.

C Where did you get that? Your poor kids. Where do you take them for ice cream? The aquar­ium? I’ll have a Dory and two Ne­mos please.

A All I’ve said is we don’t eat seaweed in Croa­tia. In fact I didn’t think you’d in­tro­duce the con­cept of surf and turf through a seaweed but­ter. I thought you’d be generic and throw a prawn or an oys­ter on there, so I’m proud of you. C Re­ally? A Yes, re­ally. Now stop with the seaweed jokes. At the end of the day, ev­ery good piece of meat needs a good amount of sea­son­ing, and the per­fect com­ple­ment to any meat is salt. You’ve in­tro­duced that sea­son­ing and the surf and turf ele­ment in one smooth move.

C Which leads us to our sec­ond most im­por­tant ques­tion: Speedos or board­ies?

A In Croa­tia, Speedos for sure. White, or­ange or lime green. In Aus­tralia, board­ies.

C Board­ies all the way, man! Ex­cept if you’re in Dublin – you wear a du­vet.

T-BONE WITH SEAWEED BUT­TER SERVES 2

1 tsp fen­nel seeds, crushed 1 tsp dashi pow­der (from Asian gro­cers)

1/ 2 tsp smoked pa­prika (pi­men­ton) Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 cup (20g) pink salt flakes 2 x 400g T-bone steaks Olive oil, to driz­zle Thick-cut chips and mi­cro pars­ley, to serve

SEAWEED BUT­TER

10g dried seaweed (from Asian gro­cers),

soaked in cold wa­ter, drained, chopped 150g un­salted but­ter, soft­ened Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 1 tbs soy sauce 1 tbs freshly grated ginger

1/4 tsp cayenne pep­per

To make dashi salt, com­bine fen­nel, dashi, pa­prika, lemon zest and salt in a bowl.

For but­ter, place all in­gre­di­ents in a food pro­ces­sor and whiz un­til com­bined.

Heat a large fry­pan over high heat. Sea­son steaks, driz­zle with oil and cook for 2 min­utes each side or un­til browned. Add one-quar­ter but­ter and cook for a fur­ther 1 minute each side for medium-rare or un­til cooked to your lik­ing. Top with re­main­ing but­ter and re­move from pan. Rest, loosely cov­ered with foil, for 3-4 min­utes.

Serve steak with chips tossed in dashi salt and scat­tered with mi­cro pars­ley.

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