Hubert (15 Bligh St; restauranthubert.com) opened last year to a rapturous reception from critics, but does it measure up to the hype? For the most part, though we feel that dinner trumps lunch. The subterranean space, with its wood-panelled walls and vermilion curtains, is better appreciated in the evening. And signature dishes, like its chicken fricassee complete with head and claws, are only available then, too. Chef Dan Pepperell is a whiz at reinventing hoary French ideas. His modern update of oeuf en gelée, old-school moulded jelly with egg yolk, comprises bonito jelly, trout roe and caviar. It’s a blast. Factor in an exceptional wine list and romantic ambience, and a pleasurable night out is assured.