6LE CHIC

delicious - - LOCAVORE. -

Hu­bert (15 Bligh St; restau­ran­thu­bert.com) opened last year to a rap­tur­ous re­cep­tion from crit­ics, but does it mea­sure up to the hype? For the most part, though we feel that din­ner trumps lunch. The sub­ter­ranean space, with its wood-pan­elled walls and ver­mil­ion cur­tains, is bet­ter ap­pre­ci­ated in the evening. And sig­na­ture dishes, like its chicken fricassee com­plete with head and claws, are only avail­able then, too. Chef Dan Pep­perell is a whiz at rein­vent­ing hoary French ideas. His mod­ern up­date of oeuf en gelée, old-school moulded jelly with egg yolk, com­prises bonito jelly, trout roe and caviar. It’s a blast. Fac­tor in an ex­cep­tional wine list and ro­man­tic am­bi­ence, and a plea­sur­able night out is as­sured.

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