TASTES OF THE NA­TION

delicious - - WICKED -

There are two dishes so em­bed­ded in the national culi­nary psy­che that McDon­ald’s has as­sim­i­lated them into their menu. Soup is one – you’ll find it in var­i­ous guises on ev­ery menu – and bi­fana is the other. Slim pork steaks are cooked in a rich stock of white wine, bay leaf, gar­lic and spices, then stuffed into a bread bun. Best served with a slug of mus­tard and an ‘im­pe­rial’ (a small beer), they cost two eu­ros or less. Lis­boans have their favourite go-tos – go lo­cal at O Triân­gulo da Ribeira (Rua Ribeira Nova 48; be­hind the TimeOut mar­ket), which is run by fa­ther-and-son team Jeron­imo and Vi­tor; and As Bi­fanas do Afonso (Rua da Madalena 146), where stain­less-steel sur­faces gleam and it’s stand­ing room only.

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