the new beauty REBELS
Modelling’s new guard have thrown out the rule book – and designers are taking note
There was a heightened sense of excitement at the SS17 shows – change was in the air. Gone were cookie-cutter models and in their place were adventurous, rebellious, different-looking girls. “The idea of everyone looking the same is completely out,” says Nicole Thompson, senior artist for M.A.C. “The mood backstage is one that celebrates individual beauty. I can’t remember the last time we were just putting makeup on and not considering the character of the girl.”
As the tide turns on traditional notions of beauty, 2017 calls for an unorthodox approach – one that doesn’t simply acknowledge that beauty comes in all colours, shapes and sizes, but celebrates it. Here’s who is leading the charge.
“We’re seeing the rise of ‘street casting’ in shows, picking men and women who represent an idea, a feeling, rather than a particular body or beauty type,” says Thompson. Think New York-based model Dilone, whose shaggy, boy-short hair accentuates her beguiling androgyny, or rising star Alanna Arrington, whose mop of fluffy curls is just as eye-catching.
Buzz cuts also created, er, buzz, popping up everywhere from atop German model Lina Hoss, who walked for JW Anderson, to Jourdana Phillips, whose peroxide-blonde cut ignited thrilled whispers at Saint Laurent. The radical look is pure punk – and eons away from the idea that models are mere clothes hangers. These girls radiate personality.
SPOT THE DIFFERENCE
Too often we’re tempted to conceal our unique characteristics, but the SS17 shows were all about embracing our true selves. At Valentino and Sonia Rykiel, natural makeup allowed the models’ skin to shine through – freckles and all. The result was youthful, fresh and perfect for the season. Follow their lead by nixing the full-coverage foundation for a dewy tinted moisturiser.
It’s out with a paint-by-numbers approach, and in with makeup made for each individual. At Victoria Beckham, makeup legend Pat Mcgrath alternated between a bold stripe of blue eye shadow across the eye, a natural face with luminous skin and a deep green winged eye, depending on the face in front of her. It was the same story at Mary Katrantzou, where there were three sets of lips, and Louis Vuitton, where eye makeup varied from graphic black eyeliner to Bowie-esque colourful eye shadow. “With many shows creating more than just one uniform look, we were focusing on not just enhancement of the clothes and hair but considering the skin tone and eye shape and colour,” explains Nars international lead makeup stylist Jane Richardson.
Rather than seeking girls who conform to their vision, some designers let the casting dictate the show’s beauty aesthetic. This was none more apparent than at Michael Kors Collection, where models were simply instructed to wash their hair the night before the show so they could walk the runway with virtually untouched tresses. Push back your alarms – this year, we’ll be doing the same. ]