DAY TWO

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Furi–Zer­matt, via Zmutt (2 hours) To­day we pru­dently stick to an of­fi­cial Ob­sta­cle-Free route. The route is so se­date, it’s been re­named ‘Hand­bag Hik­ing’. The peo­ple ahead ac­tu­ally have hand­bags, the path is as­phalt, and there’s a high in­ci­dence of in­ap­pro­pri­ate footwear.

The path is so smooth that Lotte slum­bers on, miss­ing the shim­mer­ing view of Zer­matt below and our ar­rival in the pic­turesque ham­let 0f Zmutt. Thread­ing through a tiny clus­ter of 500- year- old weath­er­beaten build­ings nes­tled into a val­ley sur­rounded by tow­er­ing peaks, we find to­day’s only ‘ob­sta­cle’, the higly re­garded res­tau­rant, Z’Mutt. Lotte wakes and, against the back­ground clink of ice cubes on crys­tal, we watch wind rip­ple across the fields and clouds cir­cle like hawks.

It’s a heady mix of moun­tain pu­rity and gourmet din­ing, a fairly ad­dic­tive mélange. The hand­bag hik­ing route? It gets a big thumbs up from me.

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