Fleet, Brunswick Heads

Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - Restaurant Awards -

Seat­ing barely 14 cus­tomers, Fleet could scarcely be said to be a restau­rant at all. The staff num­ber fewer than the reser­va­tions de­part­ments of other two-star eater­ies, and the lo­ca­tion, in a tiny town north of By­ron Bay on the north coast of New South Wales, isn’t what you’d call dy­namic. The menu is short, the wine list is tight. But whether it’s in the wel­come from Astrid McCor­mack, or the flavours from chef Josh Lewis, the ef­fect of this con­ci­sion is con­cen­tra­tion, and the re­sult is gen­er­ous. Lewis has a close con­nec­tion to ev­ery­thing on the plate just as the story of ev­ery drop of drink in the house is fa­mil­iar to McCor­mack. Fleet is as tasty as it is orig­i­nal; in other words very tasty in­deed.

IN SHORT Punch­ing well above its weight.

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