Fleet, Brunswick Heads
Seating barely 14 customers, Fleet could scarcely be said to be a restaurant at all. The staff number fewer than the reservations departments of other two-star eateries, and the location, in a tiny town north of Byron Bay on the north coast of New South Wales, isn’t what you’d call dynamic. The menu is short, the wine list is tight. But whether it’s in the welcome from Astrid McCormack, or the flavours from chef Josh Lewis, the effect of this concision is concentration, and the result is generous. Lewis has a close connection to everything on the plate just as the story of every drop of drink in the house is familiar to McCormack. Fleet is as tasty as it is original; in other words very tasty indeed.
IN SHORT Punching well above its weight.