ANATOMY OF A DISH
Banging the drum for a party dish from the south that redefines richness.
Banging the drum for timballo.
Who says nothern Italy gets all the fun? While the south is typically more associated with rustic dishes, there are plenty of classics that are easily as rich and complex as anything north of the mezzogiorno. When Naples was ruled by a Spanish branch of the French Bourbons, writes Claudia Roden, the cooks who came with them put pasta into moulds for a more elegant presentation. That tradition lives on in the timballo, a baked “drum” of pastry and/or pasta stuffed with riches served for feasting occasions.