THE BIND­ING

Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - Anatomy of a dish -

Neapoli­tan ragù is a com­mon base, but so too is béchamel sauce. Béchamel? In the south of Italy? “You think only the Bolog­nese know how to make egg pasta with white sauce?” huffs a Neapoli­tan quoted in Naples at Ta­ble.

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