The low­down on cold cof­fee, a stonebath for stargaz­ing, and na­tive in­gre­di­ents galore.

Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - News - DAVID MATTHEWS

The lat­est from the food and travel scenes.

For Dan Yee and Shoji Sasa of Ar­ti­fi­cer Spe­cialty Cof­fee Bar & Roast­ery in Syd­ney’s Surry Hills, cold cof­fee ap­pre­ci­a­tion has come a long way.

Yee started bot­tling brews back in 2012, and now, in peak sea­son, the cof­fee trade in their café hits nearly 50-50 hot to cold.

You may have had an espresso topped up with cold milk – and Yee and Sasa pour plenty of iced lat­tes – but for cof­fee that starts and ends cold, that’s lighter and more sub­tle than cof­fee made hot, there are two main tech­niques: cold brew or cold drip.

“Cold brew is an im­mer­sion method,” says Yee. “Think of a big, cold tea bag. With cold drip, wa­ter drops over a bed of cof­fee, and works its way through a fil­ter.”

Both ver­sions are black and have their fans, but Yee’s pref­er­ence is for brew. “It’s re­ally mea­sur­able, re­ally re­peat­able,” he says, and doesn’t suf­fer from ox­i­di­s­a­tion. It’s also a re­li­able home method. “It’s as sim­ple as get­ting a plunger, chuck­ing ground cof­fee in it, adding wa­ter, and leav­ing it overnight in the fridge.”

Ded­i­cated fans could in­vest in a

Toddy Cold Brew Sys­tem – a scaled-down

ver­sion of what Yee and Sasa use at Ar­ti­fi­cer – or even try brew­ing cold in an AeroPress.

They tweak the ra­tio of cof­fee to wa­ter ac­cord­ing to the beans and taste the brew as it steeps, bot­tling up when it hits the sweet spot. Take­away bot­tles are pop­u­lar, with Small Print in Perth and Black­star in Bris­bane just two of many cafés bot­tling their own cold cof­fee. But since cold cof­fee is more re­laxed than reg­u­lar joe, the fun doesn’t stop with twist tops: Mel­bourne’s In­dus­try Beans adds cold drip to a bub­ble tea-style base, and Mr Black has just added an amaro to its cold-brew cof­fee liqueur line.

It’s all about re­fresh­ment af­ter all. Stan­dard cold brew or drip may be a bit wa­tery to add milk to, for in­stance, but it’s not un­heard of – and if you’re play­ing at home, you could al­ways brew on the strong side to com­pen­sate.

“You’re or­der­ing cold cof­fee for a rea­son: you want it to be quench­able,” says Yee. “Just make it nice and cold and smash­able. That’s what we aim for.”

Ar­ti­fi­cer, 547 Bourke St, Surry Hills, NSW, ar­ti­fi­cer­cof­

Dan Yee (left) and Shoji Sasa, co-own­ers of Ar­ti­fi­cer Spe­cialty Cof­fee Bar & Roast­ery, Syd­ney

Ar­ti­fi­cer’s Cold Brew Cof­fee, $5 for 200ml.

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