THE DRESSING

The original is generally thought to have been made without anchovies, with Worcestershire sauce bringing the punch, but life is better with anchovies. Pound them to a paste with garlic, then mix in red wine vinegar, lemon juice, olive oil and salt and pepper; whisk in an egg yolk (coddled, or not) to give the dressing a creamy consistency and add Dijon mustard and parmesan for extra oomph. Smooth, tangy and rich is what we’re going for.