Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

AND ALSO…

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NEIGHBOURH­OOD WATCH

Former McConnell-stable chefs Josh Murphy and Rory Cowcher have nailed the modern-local brief at

Harley & Rose (above) with a user-friendly menu, affordable drinks and a smart makeover. Snacks like green-tomato fritters and gorgonzola dolce croquettes encourage barflies, while pizze (the number with Goolwa pipis is a finely tuned flavour-bomb) and larger dishes such as lamb meatballs with risoni set the dial to sharp comfort food. 572 Barkly St, West Footscray, (03) 8320 0325

MODERN CLASSIC

Builders Arms co-owner Anthony Hammond has transforme­d the Harts Hotel, now The Victoria, with a clever take on an old-school pub with more comfort and flair, and the menu takes a similar line: the likes of garlic bread and chicken parma benefit from better ingredient­s, while smoked ham-hock terrine and good charcuteri­e fall on the fancier side. A great range of beers and a list of mostly minimal-interventi­on wine reinforce the pub’s modern side. 43 Victoria St, Footscray, (03) 8320 0315

WEST SIDE STORY

Brunswick West is still the sleepy neighbour to hip Brunswick but with the arrival of places like Postmistre­ss that could change. The former post office building has been given a fashionabl­e fit-out to go with an Italian menu that includes pizze (try the sausage, broccoli and smoked scarmorza), pasta, assaggi (such as calamari fritti) and barbecued meats and fish. Desserts sing from the tiramisù and semifreddo songbook, and there’s a good range of Italian wines, including on tap. 71 Melville Rd, Brunswick West, (03) 9381 1585

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