THE RE­VIEW

GQ (Australia) - - TASTE + TRAVEL -

When it comes to food, in­deed din­ing, the abil­ity to chal­lenge the gas­tro­nomic gods or de­liver a dra­matic con­tem­po­rary de­sign doesn’t nec­es­sar­ily make for the best restau­rant. And given the spit, pol­ish and suave of new eater­ies to re­cently emerge, it’s nice to come across one that cel­e­brates and hon­ours the past – both ar­chi­tec­turally and also within the build­ing blocks of cui­sine. Pea­cock and Jones is in the Henry Jones Ho­tel her­itage build­ing, a wa­ter­side lo­ca­tion rub­bing against docked boats that was al­most de­mol­ished af­ter decades of deso­la­tion. Yes, this is a ho­tel restau­rant – but one wor­thy of main­land at­ten­tion, and which height­ens what’s pre­vi­ously been plated up in their space and al­ters per­cep­tions about be­ing ac­tual food des­ti­na­tions in their own right. Dine along a sand­stone wall or in the cov­ered court­yard be­side a float­ing fire­place be­tween wooden pil­lars – a great back­drop for the tech­ni­cally pro­fi­cient and deeply-sat­is­fy­ing food of chef Jeff Work­man (ex-glass Brasserie, Prime and Galileo). The rich creami­ness of an open­ing bur­rata bal­ances nicely against pick­led car­rots and hazel­nuts, while basil leaves and pine nuts crown a sweet and spicy in­ter­play be­tween roast pump­kin and nduja (spicy skin­less sausage). The sous-vide, then pan-fried, pork neck is nicely caramelised atop sko­rdalia (potato-based puree), with braised nec­tarine and turnip round­ing out a clas­sic com­bi­na­tion. As a send off, a med­ley of mul­ber­ries and straw­ber­ries pro­vide a sweet farewell be­neath goats curd, straw­berry sor­bet and fluffy fairy floss. Pea­cock and Jones takes un­fussy bistro of­fer­ings up quite a few pegs – and, among what’s a wealth of grow­ing, and al­lur­ing, eater­ies in the Tas­ma­nian cap­i­tal, is rightly writ­ing a chap­ter of its own Ho­bart his­tory. 33 Hunter St, Ho­bart; pea­cockand­jones.com.au Pea­cock and Jones, Ho­bart

Beef tartare, clas­sic gar­nishes and white an­chovies.

Pea­cock and Jones is tucked away in a sand­stone ware­house on Ho­bart’s wa­ter­front in the shadow of Mount Welling­ton

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