When it comes to food, indeed dining, the ability to challenge the gastronomic gods or deliver a dramatic contemporary design doesn’t necessarily make for the best restaurant. And given the spit, polish and suave of new eateries to recently emerge, it’s nice to come across one that celebrates and honours the past – both architecturally and also within the building blocks of cuisine. Peacock and Jones is in the Henry Jones Hotel heritage building, a waterside location rubbing against docked boats that was almost demolished after decades of desolation. Yes, this is a hotel restaurant – but one worthy of mainland attention, and which heightens what’s previously been plated up in their space and alters perceptions about being actual food destinations in their own right. Dine along a sandstone wall or in the covered courtyard beside a floating fireplace between wooden pillars – a great backdrop for the technically proficient and deeply-satisfying food of chef Jeff Workman (ex-glass Brasserie, Prime and Galileo). The rich creaminess of an opening burrata balances nicely against pickled carrots and hazelnuts, while basil leaves and pine nuts crown a sweet and spicy interplay between roast pumpkin and nduja (spicy skinless sausage). The sous-vide, then pan-fried, pork neck is nicely caramelised atop skordalia (potato-based puree), with braised nectarine and turnip rounding out a classic combination. As a send off, a medley of mulberries and strawberries provide a sweet farewell beneath goats curd, strawberry sorbet and fluffy fairy floss. Peacock and Jones takes unfussy bistro offerings up quite a few pegs – and, among what’s a wealth of growing, and alluring, eateries in the Tasmanian capital, is rightly writing a chapter of its own Hobart history. 33 Hunter St, Hobart; peacockandjones.com.au Peacock and Jones, Hobart
Beef tartare, classic garnishes and white anchovies.
Peacock and Jones is tucked away in a sandstone warehouse on Hobart’s waterfront in the shadow of Mount Wellington