perry’s lat­est

GQ (Australia) - - TASTE + TRAVEL -

For­get lam­i­nated menus and lazy su­sans – though Neil Perry’s Can­tone­seled Jade Tem­ple won’t shy from classic Chi­nese dishes like le­mon chicken. His new Syd­ney restau­rant (open­ing July on the site of his for­mer fine diner, Eleven Bridge) is set to plate up sta­ples such as sweet and sour pork and honey prawns with flair and a firm fo­cus on fresh. “There’s a rea­son why those things are fa­mous, be­cause when they’re done well, they’re ab­so­lutely de­li­cious. It’s just that, sadly, of­ten they’re not great,” Perry tells GQ. “We want to bring the best ver­sion of those dishes to the restau­rant. We want peo­ple to be say­ing, ‘Wow, that’s the best one I’ve ever had.’ And we want peo­ple com­ing to a real Chi­nese restau­rant.” Ap­par­ently, it’s “pre­mium” with­out be­ing fine din­ing. “I want it to be one of the finer restau­rants in Syd­ney... [with a] qual­ity of in­gre­di­ents and cook­ing tech­nique and craft that we’ll bring.” It means direct com­pe­ti­tion with nearby Mr Wong and Golden Cen­tury and, fur­ther afield, Mel­bourne’s Flower Drum. Jade Tem­ple’s lunch menu will be dim sum of 20 to 30 dishes, with a fo­cus on south­ern Chi­nese go-to’s such as roasts and seafood. “We’ll have a tank of mud crab and fish and pipis and crays. It’s about let­ting the in­gre­di­ents speak for them­selves – fish with ginger and shal­lot, black bean and things like that.” An im­pres­sive wine list (start­ing at $50) will ex­plore the globe across 300 bins – with chenin blanc to star. As for the le­mon chicken, Perry says to ex­pect some­thing rather spe­cial. “It’ll be the great­est in the world, not just in Aus­tralia.” 11 Bridge St, Syd­ney; jade­tem­

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