David Bick­nell Oakridge Yarra Val­ley, VIC

Halliday - - Chardonnay -

Chardon­nay’s in a very good place. There is high qual­ity com­ing from mul­ti­ple re­gions and pro­duc­ers. Good rea­son is be­ing ap­plied to high-qual­ity grapes. I’d like to think we are start­ing to tem­per the nee­dle back from ‘all about aro­mat­ics’ to ‘length and depth of palate’. In the end, pu­rity of fruit is much harder to achieve than wine­mak­ing arte­fact, be it oak, sul­phides, what­ever. I’d per­son­ally like to see more pu­rity, so hope­fully that’s where we end up in another 10 years or so.

We know that not all sites are equal, so site will trump pretty much all the other bits. Clonal se­lec­tion largely be­comes ir­rel­e­vant with vine age and care­ful crop­ping, so it’s a fairly sim­ple hi­er­ar­chy in my mind. Give me the real es­tate first. ☞

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