Steve Flam­steed Gi­ant Steps Yarra Val­ley, VIC

Halliday - - Chardonnay -

It’s an Aussie thing to take it to 11… then swing it back a lit­tle in ev­ery­thing we do. But at the same time, I think two sig­nif­i­cant things were also hap­pen­ing. Firstly, our aver­age vine age in the

Yarra Val­ley was com­ing to the sweet spot, the 20-year thing from all those plant­ings in the late ’90s. And se­condly, as a com­mu­nity of wine­mak­ers, we got over the cul­tural cringe of try­ing to make what we thought we should be mak­ing or what some­one told us the pub­lic wanted and de­cided to let the vine­yards do the talk­ing. The sur­prise was that we started lov­ing our own wines!

It’s like we now own a beau­ti­ful hand­forged car­bon steel chef’s knife and we’re go­ing to keep sharp­en­ing the blade. Min­er­ally edges will be­come more re­fined, fruit char­ac­ters will be­come more de­fined, re­gions will be­come clearer and sin­gle vine­yards will be­come the bands; the vin­tages will be the al­bums. Peo­ple will start to fol­low sites as much as they fol­low pro­duc­ers.

We were all about clones when the vine­yards were less than 10 years old, but as we ap­proach 20 to 25 years of age, site def­i­nitely trumps clone. With ma­tu­rity, all the chardon­nays are ‘be­com­ing’ their sites.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.