Iain Riggs Brokenwood Wines Hunter Valley, NSW
It’s very hard to describe a wine that has ‘presence’, but that’s where we’re heading. It’s a combination of aroma and flavour layers that meld together in such a way that rather than thinking about the oak or the malolactic fermentation, it is simply the greatest wine you’ve ever tasted. We’re definitely benefiting from vine age. A number of great sites were planted in the ’90s, but only now are they just hitting their straps. Our Beechworth property is a case in point. And winemakers are more subtle in their handling of the wine. In the ’80s and
’90s we had no idea about ‘presence’, we relied on alcohol, oak, tannin and acid either singularly or, often the case, all at once to define a wine.