Rick Kinzbrunner Giaconda Wines Beechworth, VIC
It’s certainly a mixed bag at the moment, though of course better than in the past. I have really deplored the trend to see wines as ‘slaves to fashion’ resulting in lighter, vibrant wines, but really lacking in interest. This seems to be slowly changing. Regarding the matchstick-sulphides thing, personally I love it, but we see some examples of wines overworked and with too much solids character in trying to achieve this. It must sit elegantly in the background and not overwhelm in a brutal fashion. I think in 10 years’ time we won’t see a drastic change, just a gentle honing of what is already happening.
What makes the vineyard tick? Site is number one, putting your heart and soul into the vineyard and traditional organic ways is number two; this is what I have learnt of my vines. Making the wine, I have changed little since 1990, it’s all traditional stuff, ripe grapes, lightly settled juice, basket press, barrel fermented with natural yeast, 100 per cent malolactic, ‘228 lt’ Burgundy barrels only, no pumping of the wine, bottling by gravity with no filtration… Details of the subtle matchstick character not available for discussion!