Rick Kinzbrun­ner Gi­a­conda Wines Beech­worth, VIC

Halliday - - Chardonnay -

It’s cer­tainly a mixed bag at the mo­ment, though of course bet­ter than in the past. I have re­ally de­plored the trend to see wines as ‘slaves to fash­ion’ re­sult­ing in lighter, vi­brant wines, but re­ally lack­ing in in­ter­est. This seems to be slowly chang­ing. Re­gard­ing the match­stick-sul­phides thing, per­son­ally I love it, but we see some ex­am­ples of wines over­worked and with too much solids char­ac­ter in try­ing to achieve this. It must sit ele­gantly in the back­ground and not over­whelm in a bru­tal fash­ion. I think in 10 years’ time we won’t see a dras­tic change, just a gen­tle hon­ing of what is al­ready hap­pen­ing.

What makes the vineyard tick? Site is num­ber one, putting your heart and soul into the vineyard and tra­di­tional or­ganic ways is num­ber two; this is what I have learnt of my vines. Mak­ing the wine, I have changed lit­tle since 1990, it’s all tra­di­tional stuff, ripe grapes, lightly set­tled juice, bas­ket press, bar­rel fer­mented with nat­u­ral yeast, 100 per cent mal­o­lac­tic, ‘228 lt’ Bur­gundy bar­rels only, no pump­ing of the wine, bot­tling by grav­ity with no fil­tra­tion… De­tails of the sub­tle match­stick char­ac­ter not avail­able for dis­cus­sion!

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.