Cliff Royle Flametree Wines Margaret River, WA
I think Australian chardonnay is in a really nice place at the moment. Winemakers have been more creative with sulphides in chardonnay, and stalks in shiraz and pinot. The wines are far more savoury, there is less focus on primary fruits and therefore they are more interesting. When we were confronted by the ABC club, it was a great wake-up call for all winemakers. I remember thinking it was a strong message we were being sent, but was unwooded chardonnay the answer?
No, it wasn’t. The greatest white grape variety in the world just needed to be treated with more respect and, as winemakers, we needed to stop being so one-dimensional.