An­drew Murch of Pt Leo Es­tate on Vic­to­ria’s Morn­ing­ton Penin­sula

An­drew re­calls five of his most sig­nif­i­cant wine mem­o­ries that have each come from pro­fes­sional ex­pe­ri­ences.

Halliday - - Contents - Morn­ing­ton Penin­sula, Vic­to­ria

01 2013 Tolpud­dle Chardon­nay

I tasted this bench­mark Aus­tralian chardon­nay [when I was work­ing] at Rock­pool Bar & Grill Mel­bourne, with [for­mer bev­er­age di­rec­tor] David Lawler and the wine team. It was the first time I felt like I’d re­ally nailed a tast­ing note in front of my col­leagues. I re­mem­ber say­ing the wine was cit­ric, salty and leaner than most Aus­tralian coun­ter­parts, but still with a sub­tle creami­ness adding some softer edges and sub­tle pad­ding. It was so re­strained. I tasted a 2013 a few weeks ago and it’s still look­ing very smart. The feel­ing of nail­ing that note has given this wine a spe­cial place in my heart.

02 Henri Ger­main Meur­sault Per­ri­eres 1er Cru

Again I was with my Rock­pool col­leagues one night af­ter work. Af­ter tast­ing this wine against the Henri Ger­main Meur­sault Charmes 1er Cru, David [Lawler] asked me which one I pre­ferred. I said the Charmes, as it was rounder, softer and more flo­ral – more charm­ing. But af­ter we’d dis­cussed it as a group, I re­alised that although the im­me­di­ate al­lure of the Charmes was un­de­ni­able, the gas­tro­nomic po­ten­tial of the more struc­tured Per­ri­eres was un­sur­pass­able. From that mo­ment on, I un­der­stood that ev­ery­thing I tasted had to re­late back to food.

03 1998 Chateau Bous­casse VV Madi­ran

I served a mag­num of this wine to one of my favourite reg­u­lars at Rock­pool. It’s al­ways fun to serve large-for­mat bot­tles. Once I’d served this wine on that night, I kept look­ing at it and it kept on chang­ing. The wine was all dark and brood­ing one minute, then 15 min­utes later it was su­per lifted and flo­ral. I re­alised then that a good wine, with some age, will take you on a jour­ney through­out the du­ra­tion of the bot­tle, re­veal­ing it­self in dif­fer­ent ways, chang­ing and evolv­ing in the glass. It’s al­ways so ex­cit­ing when this hap­pens.

04 2005 Gi­a­como Con­terno Mon­fortino Barolo Ris­erva

This bot­tle was the fi­nale of the 2016 Lorenzo Galli Schol­ar­ship [an ini­tia­tive of Vic­to­rian win­ery Galli Es­tate that cel­e­brates Ital­ian styles]. We tasted it blind and I knew it was a great Barolo from Mon­forte, but it was show­ing some pre­ma­ture ox­i­di­s­a­tion and I picked it as be­ing 20 years old. I couldn’t be­lieve how much it was still singing in the glass. The slight ran­cio notes were fail­ing to mask the sheer qual­ity of its sweet fruit and pro­found min­er­al­ity. I was blown away by how in­cred­i­ble this wine could be, even on an ‘off’ day.

05 2005 Do­maine de Treval­lon Rouge

The en­joy­ment of wine for me is all about the story. René Dür­rbach was an artist who bought this es­tate and planted vines. On his deathbed in 2000, at the re­quest of his son, he painted on 50 blank Treval­lon la­bels. They use these unique la­bels each year, de­pend­ing on the char­ac­ter of the wine and vin­tage. When I first read about this, I knew that a good story can make a wine even more en­joy­able. As a som­me­lier, I try not to speak ex­clu­sively about the char­ac­ters of a wine, but also the char­ac­ters be­hind it. Peo­ple re­spond well to a good story.

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