THE EL­E­GANT ART OF EAT­ING YOUR GREENS

A new wave of veg­e­tar­i­an­ism is in­vad­ing some of our best menus. By EL­IZA O’HARE

Harper’s Bazaar (Australia) - - Contents -

Veg out.

WHEN BRENT SAV­AGE AND NICK HILDE­BRANDT’S cel­e­brated Syd­ney restau­rant Yel­low switched its menu to a com­pletely veg­e­tar­ian one in Fe­bru­ary, it sig­nalled a shift in fine din­ing.there’s a new wave of part-time veg­e­tar­i­an­ism; the el­e­gant art of eat­ing all of your greens — with matched wines, of course. Gone are gritty vegie dishes in grimy sur­rounds; this move­ment is all about pair­ing heir­loom baby en­dive with­veuve Clic­quot in chic in­te­ri­ors. Green ap­pre­ci­a­tion has been a long time com­ing,with chefs such asy­otam Ot­tolenghi lead­ing the way with his best-sell­ing veg­e­tar­ian cook­books Plenty, re­leased back in 2010, and Plenty More, from 2014. But you know it’s a real thing when Alain Du­casse’s Paris restau­rant in the Hô­tel Plaza Athénée side­steps meat dishes for a greater fo­cus on grains, fish and veg­eta­bles. While not ev­ery­one wants to com­mit to of­fer­ing a fully green menu, there’s a greater per­cent­age of se­ri­ous restau­rants in­tro­duc­ing big-flavoured veg­e­tar­ian dishes. Af­ter all, the new (part-time) veg­e­tar­ian is also a flavour seeker. It could be a con­tro­ver­sial move, but chef Brent Sav­age saysyel­low has al­ways had a fo­cus on veg­eta­bles.“our veg­e­tar­ian and ve­gan menus have grown in­creas­ingly pop­u­lar at all three restau­rants [Yel­low, Bent­ley and Mono­pole, all in Syd­ney], so it felt like a nat­u­ral pro­gres­sion,” he ex­plains.“the re­sponse to the new menu has been re­ally pos­i­tive, and it’s early days, but the parsnip ‘pap­pardelle’ is def­i­nitely a con­tender for our best­seller.” Chef Mike Mcen­ear­ney of Kitchen by Mike is in the fi­nal stages of de­vel­op­ing the menu for his new Syd­ney restau­rant, No. 1 Bent Street (due to open this month), and is com­mit­ting to more green dishes. “I love veg­eta­bles — if I was only al­lowed to eat one food group for the rest of my life it would be veg,” he says.“there’s just so much di­ver­sity and such great flavour.they formed the bulk of my dishes at KBM [Kitchen by Mike] and will cer­tainly fea­ture heav­ily at No 1. Bent Street.” Adding kick to the green din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence is juice pair­ing. At Sil­ver­eye, in Syd­ney’s new foodie precinct, Chip­pen­dale, man­ager/som­me­lier James Au­das says din­ers are em­brac­ing a side or­der of be­spoke matched fruit-and-veg­etable juices.“many of our guests who pre­vi­ously would have had a soda wa­ter or a sin­gle glass of wine get to be part of the en­gag­ing ex­pe­ri­ence that is our pair­ings.there are def­i­nitely favourites, like the rose kom­bucha and rasp­berry matched with beet­root dishes, or the ap­ple, beet­root and dried lemon myr­tle matched with ox­tail.” Sounds like the time is ripe to cel­e­brate your veg­e­tar­ian lean­ings.

Le Creuset casse­role, $539, lecreuset.com.au. Yel­low, Syd­ney. Inset: chef Brent Sav­age. Above: chef Mike Mcen­ear­ney. Right: Kitchen by Mike’s wa­ter­melon, tomato and haloumi salad.

Kitchenaid Stand Mixer, $879, kitchenaid.com.au. Sil­ver­eye ex­ec­u­tive chef Sam Miller; his sun­flower and gera­nium crisp­bread. Right: the restau­rant.

Wey­landts mix­ing bowl, from $25, wey­landts.com.au.

Riedel glass, $50 for two.

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