FRA­GRANCES AT EV­ERY AGE

What we’re spritz­ing and why.

Harper’s Bazaar (Australia) - - Contents - By ANNA LAVDARAS

HAS A SCENT

ever opened a vault of mem­o­ries you’d long since filed away, trans­port­ing you to a mo­ment in the past? Aro­mas have a funny way of firmly at­tach­ing them­selves to time — be it your very first spritz, stand­ing on tippy-toes at your grand­mother’s van­ity cabi­net, or the eau de toi­lette you were wear­ing when you met the love of your life.the sen­ti­men­tal sounds, sights and sen­sa­tions of that mo­ment are bot­tled and pre­served along­side the fra­grance it­self, only to be re­leased with a dab on your pulse points. Even as time passes, notes stay true. “un­like fash­ion, fra­grance dis­re­gards age,” says mas­ter per­fumer Roja Dove. “like a true friend, fra­grance is loyal, non-judge­men­tal and kind.” While some women re­main faith­ful to the same bot­tle for a life­time, others flit be­tween mul­ti­ple ac­cords, adopt­ing dif­fer­ent fra­grances through var­i­ous stages of their lives. Ei­ther way, per­fume is in­deed more a friend than an ac­ces­sory — and in the same way we seek out friends, so women tend to sub­lim­i­nally opt for scents that re­flect their as­pi­ra­tions at the time. As teens, we might look for some­thing un­com­pli­cated, sweet and easy — of­ten in the form of a celebrity fra­grance. By the time we set­tle into our ca­reers, our tastes have prob­a­bly changed. “hope­fully, by the time a woman has en­tered her twen­ties, she has started to un­der­stand the types of scents that suit her,” Dove says .“[she] will likely pre­fer a fra­grance with a more cen­tred feel. woody, dry notes such as san­dal­wood, ve­tiver and musk be­come im­por­tant. “The woman in her forties is es­tab­lished in her ca­reer but still wants life to be quite fun,” he adds. As a woman moves into her fifties ,“this is all about re-es­tab­lish­ing life on your own terms. Menopause of­ten causes the skin to lose mois­ture, and be­cause the oil in per­fume sticks to the oil in skin, scents won’t last as long on a ma­ture woman.” this is of­ten the rea­son for choos­ing more con­cen­trated eau de par­fum and oud vari­a­tions of fra­grance favourites. Dove also sug­gests women re­con­sider their choice of per­fume with age, as cer­tain scents con­vey a sense of youth­ful­ness and en­ergy. “cit­rus notes have been used for cen­turies to re­vive, up­lift and boost vi­tal­ity,” he says. “Think about the ef­fect of some­one peel­ing an or­ange in a stuffy train car­riage — it in­stantly recharges the stale, stag­nant air. Like­wise cer­tain flo­ral notes can take years off a fra­grance and its wearer. Freesia, pe­ony, lily of the val­ley and or­ange blos­som, in small quan­ti­ties, give a won­der­ful vi­va­cious­ness.” Need­less to say, the per­fume a woman chooses can tell a great story.we spoke to sev­eral fra­grance ob­ses­sives, who have each built suc­cess­ful ca­reers in the beauty in­dus­try, about the scent(s) they’ve cho­sen to ac­com­pany them for the ride.

Eugenie Kelly, 45, Harper’s BAZAAR beauty di­rec­tor/deputy ed­i­tor

“I’m done with my zingy, fresh white-shirt-in-a-bot­tle stage. I’ve ticked the full-bod­ied, rich and murky box. And as for that un­for­tu­nate phase when I dab­bled with blokey uni­sex blends, pfft — let’s just say what smells soft and sexy on men didn’t do moi any favours. Th­ese days when it comes to fra­grance, I’m look­ing for the ol­fac­tory equiv­a­lent of an ex­pen­sive frilly dress and heels. Roses, in other words. Some­times that trans­lates to a flo­ral show­case (Jo Malone Red Roses), while other times I want some­thing sweeter and un­de­ni­ably gour­mand. Elie Saab Essence No. 1 Rose was re­leased as part of a lim­ited-edi­tion lux­ury quar­tet a year ago, but its com­plex­ity is still ut­terly ir­re­sistible thanks to a dash of creamy vanilla that doesn’t make it cloy­ing. For an ‘eas­ier’, friend­lier ver­sion (also by the same per­fumer, Fran­cis Kurkd­jian), try its spinoff, Elie Saab Le Par­fum Rose Cou­ture, which has be­come a depart­ment-store sta­ple.”

Jo Hor­gan, 46, Mecca Cos­met­ica founder

“For me, that fra­grance is Eau d’italie. When I spritz it on in the morn­ing I find it so en­er­gis­ing and up­lift­ing — it trans­ports me in­stantly to Posi­tano. So I feel com­pletely ready to launch into the day ahead, and yet there is a small sense of hol­i­day that I hap­pily carry around with me. I started my love af­fair with fra­grance when I was about 11, with my first very own bot­tle of Anaïs Anaïs, which I sprayed on far too lib­er­ally ... but not as lib­er­ally as I did with my mother’s Opium and Must de Cartier when I was younger. Peo­ple would have def­i­nitely known I was com­ing be­fore I got there!”

Gillian Franklin, 59, The Heat Group man­ag­ing di­rec­tor

“I truly en­joy wear­ing fra­grance. I wear it ev­ery day, even when I am just loung­ing around at home. I put fra­grance on just like I brush my teeth — it is part of my daily rou­tine. I’ve been wear­ing Chanel’s Coco Made­moi­selle for at least 10 years. I dis­cov­ered it on an over­seas trip at the duty-free store. Now I would go so far as to say that it is part of who I am. It is my ev­ery­day fra­grance, and it has the body cream for lay­er­ing, which I love. I never tire of it, and, for me, longevity is the sign of a re­ally spe­cial fra­grance. I take it with me ev­ery­where, and I al­ways buy the large one be­cause I use it all the time. My el­dest daugh­ter, Ashleigh, bor­rowed my Coco Made­moi­selle for her wed­ding day — it was her ‘some­thing bor­rowed’ — so this will al­ways be a won­der­ful mem­ory for me.”

Lindy Klim, 38, Milk & Co co-founder

“My favourite per­fume is one I’ve worn for­ever. It is Por­trait of a Lady by Frédéric Malle. There are other per­fumes that come into my life, but Por­trait of a Lady is my go-to fra­grance day to day. I find it isn’t over­bear­ing or too pow­er­ful, and yet it’s recog­nis­able enough to leave a trace on me. It’s be­come my sig­na­ture scent. I like that be­cause I’ve al­ways worn it — peo­ple in my life can recog­nise it as my own.to de­scribe the scent in one word,i would say it’s ma­jes­tic.”

Kate Morris, 38, Adore Beauty founder

“I’ve been wear­ing Clar­ins Eau Dy­namisante for nearly 20 years, ever since my uni job work­ing on the Clar­ins counter. I had to wear it ev­ery day for work for three years and yet I never got sick of it — and all th­ese years later, I’m still not tired of it. I do wear other fra­grances, too, but Eau Dy­namisante is al­ways my go-to when­ever I’m feel­ing tired or need a pick-me-up — it’s def­i­nitely a mood-changer. It’s re­ally cit­rusy and fresh, and a few sprays on the back of my neck al­ways puts a spring in my step. I love it in sum­mer be­cause it smells so clean and fresh and is never over­pow­er­ing in the heat; but I also love it in winter be­cause it smells like sum­mer and adds a bit of sparkle to a grey Mel­bourne day. I have about 30 other bot­tles of fra­grance on my dress­ing ta­ble, but this is the only one I’ve kept com­ing back to for all th­ese years.”

Kirsten Car­riol, 43, Lano­lips founder

“My first fra­grance was given to me by my brother in the early 1990s. It was The Body Shop’s White Musk oil, which I ac­tu­ally still adore — it has an earthy soft­ness and in­no­cence about it.af­ter a brief flirt with the ’80s headi­ness of [Dior] Poi­son, in my twen­ties and thir­ties I al­ways went for the more un­usual fra­grances that I didn’t see ev­ery­where, like An­to­nia’s Flow­ers and Her­mès Hiris, which I still wear most days. I also loved the sim­plic­ity and fresh­ness of Kiehl’s Grape­fruit oil. I liked to be a bit more elu­sive and left-of-cen­tre about it all. I still wear Hiris as my ev­ery­day choice, but my ab­so­lute favourite is a scent by Frédéric Malle called En Pas­sant, which in this con­text means ‘to pass by’. It’s like that waft of a scent you get when a stranger passes by wear­ing some­thing you adore and want to have im­me­di­ately. It’s very soft and sub­tle but complex and so­phis­ti­cated. It’s qui­etly con­fi­dent.”

Han­nah Betts, 45, fea­ture writer and colum­nist

“I’ve al­ways been a slave to per­fume, as was my mother, and as is my niece. Suc­cumb­ing to scent ap­pears to be ge­netic. My mother gave me Cartier’s ten­der Must II de Cartier when I was 17; a year later, I fell in love in it, faith­ful to both for the next decade. When that pas­sion ended, so did my abil­ity to wear it. It no longer smelt like me — too girl­ish, too naive. Shortly af­ter­wards, I dis­cov­ered not a per­fume but a genre: leather chypres — mossy, ballsy, cere­bral and unashamedly al­lur­ing.th­ese have been the scents of my adult self. Chanel’s Sy­co­more is the chypre I wear most:a glo­ri­ously au­then­tic true wood, at once bal­sam­i­cally dirty yet stark as a trot through a winter wood­land. Spare and un­sen­ti­men­tal, its ve­tiver, cy­press, ju­niper and pink pep­per notes speak of the di­rect­ness yet com­plex­ity of a woman in her prime.”

Zoë Fos­ter Blake, 35, Go-to founder and au­thor of Amazinger Face

“I have too many fra­grances. I’m not a sig­na­ture-scent girl, I’m a mood-scent girl. I’m cur­rently thrash­ing Tom Ford Black Orchid eau de toi­lette, Ar­mani Privé Oud Royal, Mol­e­cule 01 by Es­cen­tric Mol­e­cules, and Dark Rum by Malin+goetz. I wear Tom Ford for sexy-sexy vibes; Oud for an un­ex­pected, mas­cu­line evening fra­grance; 01 daily as a light veil of uni­sex, clean fresh­ness; and Rum for ev­ery­thing else — es­pe­cially travel. I was a Michael Kors Michael diehard for many years, but that feels too fem­i­nine and sweet for me right now. It seems I favour dark, in­tense, bold scents or light, fresh scents, but not re­ally the in-be­tween ones. Not now, any­way. Ask me next week.”

Aerin Lauder, 46, Aerin founder

“My ear­li­est mem­o­ries are scents: freshly cut grass, the smell of fresh flow­ers, the seaside — there are so many. Grow­ing up sur­rounded by fra­grance, no mat­ter where I was, there were al­ways things to test, try and play with. I love white florals — es­pe­cially gar­de­nia, tuberose and or­ange blos­som. Many of th­ese notes are used in the fra­grances I’ve worked on over the years, in­clud­ing the new Aerin Fra­grance Col­lec­tion.there is a part of me, an ex­pres­sion of me, in each of th­ese fra­grances. I love them all and use each for my dif­fer­ent moods and feel­ings.”

Jo Malone, 52, Jo Loves founder and cre­ative di­rec­tor

“I’ve had a love af­fair with fresh, clean cit­rus scents for as long as I can re­mem­ber, and I am al­ways drawn to in­gre­di­ents that re­mind me of very clas­sic Mediter­ranean colognes, such a berg­amot, neroli, pe­tit­grain, ve­tiver and lemon leaf.as I’ve grown older and ex­per­i­mented with dif­fer­ent notes, I in­stinc­tively weave one of th­ese in­gre­di­ents through­out each new fra­grance — it’s def­i­nitely my cre­ative sig­na­ture. For me right now, pomelo is with­out doubt my favourite scent. It was the first Jo Loves fra­grance I cre­ated and it gave me the con­fi­dence to come back to the in­dus­try I love so much. In­spired dur­ing a hol­i­day on the is­land of Par­rot Cay, it’s made up of my sum­mer mem­o­ries and mo­ments — the feel­ing of walk­ing bare­foot along the sand, the sun on my skin, the cool touch of fresh linen sheets, and a glass of sparkling wa­ter with lots of crushed ice. I sur­round my­self with pomelo wher­ever I go. It’s the fra­grance that causes peo­ple to stop me in the street to ask what I’m wear­ing. It re­ally is my best friend.”

Sara Don­ald­son, 27, Harper & Har­ley blog­ger

“I’ve never been one to have a sig­na­ture scent, how­ever I’ve now found one that re­flects who I want to be. Smell is one of our most pow­er­ful senses and it’s re­ally im­por­tant to think about how a fra­grance im­pacts on how you’re per­ceived by others. It’s not as ob­vi­ous as fash­ion, but it’s ar­guably just — or even more — pow­er­ful. Le Labo Thé Noir 29 is, for me, the per­fect bal­ance be­tween mas­cu­line and fem­i­nine. I like a fra­grance that has depth and isn’t too sweet. Putting on this fra­grance makes me feel em­pow­ered and in­de­pen­dent, and it’s al­ways the one that gets a re­ac­tion when I wear it. I’ve been wear­ing this fra­grance for about nine months.”

Saskia Havekes, 48, florist, au­thor and per­fumer

“I loved San­drinev­ideault, our first nose/per­fumer, from the se­cond I met her at the air­port. Mag­no­lia gran­di­flora has al­ways been my most favourite flower, so cap­tur­ing the spirit of her [in the Mag­no­lia Gran­di­flora San­drine per­fume] is the most pre­cious gift to me from San­drine. San­drine passed away the year it was re­leased. Fra­grance is such a trig­ger for mem­o­ries. I have been wear­ing this fra­grance for three years. Over that time my taste in fra­grance notes has be­come more alert. I now pre­fer to reap­ply niche fra­grances that aren’t cloy­ing rather than hav­ing a per­fume that sticks too heav­ily for too long. The sil­lage is most im­por­tant — I love to catch a note of my fra­grance here and there and recog­nise it like an old friend.”

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