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Herald Sun - Motoring - - Readers Say -



FEW months ago the heads-up dis­play and nor­mal speedome­ter on my 1993 Nis­san Blue­bird SSS stopped work­ing, but oc­ca­sion­ally they start work­ing again, then keep work­ing un­til the car is turned off. What could be wrong?

Peter, Bea­cons­field It’s likely to be a dry con­nec­tion at the HUD mod­ule, or the mod­ule it­self could be faulty. You could try a sec­ond-hand mod­ule or have an auto-elec­tri­cian check and sol­der the joints for you if nec­es­sary.


I CAN con­firm that you are 100 per cent cor­rect about the mas­ter cylin­der slightly hold­ing brakes on, caus­ing the brakes on the EL Fal­con to warp pre­ma­turely.

I have had my EL XR8 for 10 years and had the same is­sue hap­pen at about 150,000km.

Discs would be fried in less than 1000km af­ter be­ing ma­chined.

John Na­has, email ANY­ONE with a brake shud­der they can’t cure would be well ad­vised to check the brake mas­ter cylin­der to see if it is stick­ing.



hav­ing a tyre re­placed on my Holden Vectra I de­cided to check how tight the wheel studs were. Us­ing the tube wrench that came with the car I could not loosen them. I was able to loosen four of the five studs af­ter I slipped a 1m piece of tube over the wrench to give me more lever­age, but there was no way I could loosen the fifth what­ever I did.

The tyre com­pany ex­plained they are reg­u­lated to only torque the studs to 140Nm and as­sured me they can­not over-torque the studs. When I then asked them to loosen the fifth stud they could not move it ei­ther us­ing their own wheel wrench. They said it ap­peared that the stud had fused to the al­loy wheel. Can I smear a lit­tle Vase­line or grease be­tween the stud and the wheel to stop them fus­ing?

Alf Balzan, email You don’t need to do any­thing if you tighten the studs cor­rectly. Tell them to check their wrench and then have them tighten the studs to the cor­rect torque while you watch.



com­plaint about the lights go­ing out on Subaru Out­backs caught my eye and I thought I’d let you know that in 11 months and for no ap­par­ent rea­son, both low-beam globes had to be re­placed on our 2010 Forester at a cost of $140. It’s not only Out­back mod­els that have the prob­lem.

Chris, email We have had sev­eral re­ports from own­ers of Out­backs and other Subarus, and you would ap­pear to be cor­rect, it’s not con­fined to the Out­back. We have for­warded them on to Subaru for in­ves­ti­ga­tion.



to re­ports of blown globes on a Subaru Out­back I sug­gest a higher than nor­mal al­ter­na­tor out­put volt­age is the likely cause. This could be due to a fail­ure of the volt­age reg­u­la­tor. Apart from a man­u­fac­tur­ing de­fect, a higher than nor­mal volt­age sup­ply is usu­ally the only rea­son new light globe fil­a­ments, whether car or house­hold, con­stantly fail pre­ma­turely.

A check with a DC volt­meter at an en­gine speed of 1500 revs should show close to 14 (+/-0.5) volts out­put. Which brings to mind the fact that many mod­ern cars no longer have volt­age, oil pres­sure, or tem­per­a­ture gauges to in­di­cate to

Stop, then start: a reader has a speedo prob­lem with a Nis­san Blue­bird.

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