DIANNE BUTLER OUT OF THE BOX
BRITISH neo-neo colonisation continues, with Rick Stein now occupying Spain. He’s pressing towards the Basque region, and trying to recall an ancient childhood memory of a family holiday to Laredo when he was eight and had squid and Coke for the first time. They drove over from England in his father’s blue Jaguar Mk VII but 50 years later the hotel’s not there any more. Still, anchovies are, and they’re the ham of the sea, Rick says. You know how this goes: he cooks, eats, talks to locals. Spain’s lovely, Rick’s enthusiastic. He winds up on the Catalan coast, because he needs the sea.