Take an in­ex­pen­sive wooden chop­ping board and a few pieces of tim­ber and turn them into a prac­ti­cal and ver­sa­tile side ta­ble.

Homes+ (Australia) - - NEWS -

Try this month’s DIY pro­ject and turn a tim­ber chop­ping board into a side ta­ble.

1 For the ver­ti­cal pieces, mea­sure your chair then mea­sure and cut 2 lengths of pine to your de­sired height mea­sure­ment (in our case, 650mm). For the side pieces, cut 4 x 320mm lengths. Use square to mea­sure and then mitre (cut a 45° an­gle) 1 end of each. For the front pieces, cut 2 x 430mm lengths. Mitre both ends of each, mak­ing sure 1 side still mea­sures the full 430mm.


Glue 2 side pieces ei­ther side of 1 front piece, join­ing at mitred ends. Se­cure with a 32mm screw through each mitre. You should now have two U-shaped frames.


Place 1 frame on floor. From above, it looks like foot­ball goal­posts. Mea­sure and mark a small rec­tan­gle 40mm x 10mm x 40mm out of the foot of each “goal­post” on the in­side (to cre­ate 2 notched ends that are 10mm thick, not 20mm). Use tenon saw to cut out this rec­tan­gle. Re­peat on other frame. On ver­ti­cal pieces cut the same notches at BOTH ends (notches to be on the same side). In the next step, th­ese notches will fit to­gether to form a right-an­gled join; see cor­ner Step 5 photo.


Now at­tach ver­ti­cal pieces to side pieces, slot­ting notches over each other at right an­gles. Use glue and 16mm screws to se­cure. Leave to dry. You should now have a com­plete frame mi­nus the chop­ping board.


Once glue is dry, slot chop­ping board into top of frame, trim­ming it a lit­tle if nec­es­sary. Keep it flush to top. Screw a 32mm screw through each side and into the board. Mea­sure and cut a piece of pine (should be about 390mm) to fin­ish the frame around the board and glue and screw into place. On the top, fill gaps in the cor­ners with glue and let dry.


Sand all over then paint with three coats of paint, dry­ing in be­tween. Or ap­ply clear var­nish for a nat­u­ral fin­ish.

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