Kitchens churn­ing for but­ter

Spread makes a come­back as mar­garine loses its fans

Isis Town and Country - - Life | Easy Eating - Jen Gour­ley jen.gour­

BUT­TER. It’s a “sin­ful” spread that’s been frowned upon for decades. But now it seems but­ter – beau­ti­ful, creamy but­ter – the rea­son cows walk on this green Earth, is mak­ing a come­back. A new Roy Mor­gan Re­search study has found Aus­tralians are start­ing to pop more blocks of but­ter into their shop­ping trol­leys. In the 12 months end­ing at June 2016, 54.7% of Aus­tralian gro­cery buy­ers bought but­ter at least once in an av­er­age four-week pe­riod, up from the 47.2% who bought but­ter in the 12 months end­ing at June 2012. Mean­while, mar­garine is slip­ping down the greasy pole of spreads, with only 44.6% of peo­ple buy­ing mar­garine at least once a month in the 12 months end­ing June 2016, down 20% on June 2012 fig­ures. Why are peo­ple choos­ing but­ter over marg? I don’t re­ally know. It could be there’s more of an aware­ness of the chem­i­cal pro­cesses in­volved in mak­ing mar­garine. “As for but­ter ver­sus mar­garine, I trust cows more than chemists,” said Joan Dye Gus­sow, a pro­fes­sor, en­vi­ron­men­tal­ist and food pol­icy ex­pert. I’m on her side of the fence. It could also be due to the pop­u­lar­ity of cook­ing shows and the rise of the foodie. Per­haps peo­ple are re­al­is­ing most dishes ac­tu­ally taste bet­ter made with but­ter. I have many fond mem­o­ries of but­ter from my child­hood, even if mar­garine made more of an ap­pear­ance on the break­fast ta­ble in those days. My mother would read AA Milne’s verses to me, in­clud­ing the won­der­fully rhyth­mic King’s Break­fast, which was all about the king want­ing “some but­ter for the Royal slice of bread” and the saga that en­sued so he could have some. It’s still one of my most loved po­ems. But my favourite but­ter mem­ory would have to be eat­ing my grand­mother’s short­bread. When I think of but­ter, I think of her short­bread. She passed the recipe on to me and now it’s a tra­di­tion for me to cook it for my fam­ily at Christ­mas time. I’ve also found it freezes well so you can store it away and pull out a piece for morn­ing tea when­ever you get the crav­ing.

Grandma’s short­bread In­gre­di­ents

225g but­ter 250g plain flour 125g ic­ing sugar 85g corn­flour


Cream but­ter and ic­ing sugar. Sift flour and corn­flour, add to but­ter and ic­ing sugar and mix. Knead and then roll into a small log shape. Wrap in cling film or grease­proof pa­per and chill in the fridge for 45 min­utes. Slice pieces about 1cm thick, place on a greased tray and prick with a fork. Bake at 150C for about 20 min­utes or un­til just turn­ing a light golden colour. Makes about 25 bis­cuits

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