1 From Punta Arenas, drive or arrange a transfer to Puerto Natales, just under three hours away. Watch for sightings of rhea and Chilean flamingos en route.
2 The Remota, a short walk from town, is an impeccably comfortable place in which to recover from the long flight. The style is vaguely Modernist, with striking angles, high ceilings, lots of wood, feature fireplaces and tall windows making the most of fjord views. The hotel offers plenty of activities, from mountain-biking to horse-riding, and the food in its restaurant is excellent; be sure to try a Calafate Sour cocktail before tucking in to fine local steak or guanaco carpaccio (from £205; all-inclusive packages are also available; remotahotel.com).
3 If you need hiking or outdoor gear, stock up in the shops of Puerto Natales before you drive to Torres del Paine National Park, about 90 minutes away. The entrance fee is £13pp in low season (May to September) and £25 otherwise (parquetorresdelpaine.cl, torresdelpaine.com).
4 The Explora Patagonia may have the very best views of any hotel in the world: looking across the waters of Lago Pehoé at the crinkled peaks of the Cordillera del Paine. The hotel perches a little like a beached ship on the shores of the lake; its slate and wood interior is a fine place to relax at the end of the day, but really the focus is on getting you out into the park. Lecturers and guides are on hand to advise on excursions to suit your fitness levels and interests, from gentle photo safaris to challenging mountain ascents. The food and wine in its restaurant are top-notch (three nights from £975pp, including all transfers, park fees, activities, food and drinks; explora.com).
5 To arrange a trip to Estancia La Criollita, for horse-riding and lamb feasts, email Victor Sharp at firstname.lastname@example.org. Note that he doesn’t have email access often, so plan well in advance. The ranch is also on Instagram at estancialacriollita. 6 From the ranch, it’s around a five-hour drive back to the airport at Punta Arenas.