CON­TRAST STARS

Cor­ner-square tri­an­gles in bold con­trast shades add up to a jux­ta­posed de­sign that crack­les with en­ergy

Love Patchwork & Quilting - - PROJECTS - BY Lynne Goldswor­thy

Have fun with Lynne Goldswor­thy’s fab­u­lous fab­ric stash bust­ing quilt

NOTES

■ Seam al­lowances are ¼in, un­less oth­er­wise noted.

■ Press seams open, un­less oth­er­wise in­structed.

■ CST = Cor­ner-square Tri­an­gle.

■ RST = right sides to­gether.

■ WOF = width of fab­ric.

■ WST = wrong sides to­gether.

FAB­RICS USED

Solid fab­rics are from the Mod­ern Ba­sics col­lec­tion and the back­ing fab­ric is from the First of In­fin­ity col­lec­tion, both by Le­cien Fab­rics.

CUT­TING OUT

1

From each of the dark prints, cut four (4)

5¼in x 3in rec­tan­gles.

2

From each of the light prints, cut four (4)

3½in squares.

3

From the black fab­ric cut forty-one (41)

3in squares.

4

From the grey fab­ric cut three hun­dred and twenty-eight (328) 2¼in squares.

5

From the back­ground fab­ric cut

■ Sev­en­teen (17) 1¾in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into four hun­dred (400) 1¾in squares.

■ Twenty-two (22) 2¼in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into one hun­dred (100) 2¼in x 3½in strips and one hun­dred (100) 2¼in x 5¼in strips.

■ Four­teen (14) 3in x WOF strips. Sub­cut into forty (40) 3in x 12½in strips.

■ Eight (8) 3in x WOF strips. Sew these to­gether in pairs, then trim to give two (2) 3in x

70½in strips and two (2) 3in x 75½in strips.

RAID YOUR STASH FOR BRIGHT RAIN­BOW SHADES AND CHOOSE A CON­TRAST­ING BACK­ING FAB­RIC

6

Cut the bind­ing fab­ric into eight (8)

2½in WOF strips.

PIEC­ING THE UNITS

7

Take one 3in x 5¼in dark print rec­tan­gle and one 2¼in grey square. On the back of the grey square, mark a di­ag­o­nal line from cor­ner to cor­ner. Align the grey square in one cor­ner of the dark print rec­tan­gle, RST. Sew along the drawn line. Trim ¼in away from the sewn line and press open to com­plete your first grey CST (Fig 1).

8

Re­peat step 7 to add one 1¾in back­ground square CST to the op­po­site cor­ner.

9

Re­peat steps 7–8 to add grey and back­ground CSTs to the re­main­ing two cor­ners, as shown (Fig 2).

10

Re­peat steps 7–9 to add grey and back­ground CSTs to the re­main­ing dark print rec­tan­gles.

11

Take two 1¾in back­ground squares and one 3½in light print square. Re­peat steps 7–8 to add back­ground CSTs to two op­po­site cor­ners (Fig 3). Re­peat to add back­ground CSTs to the re­main­ing 3½in light print squares.

12

Sew a 2¼in x 3½in back­ground rec­tan­gle to the top of each of the light print CST units. Then sew a 2¼in x 5¼in back­ground rec­tan­gle to the side (Fig 4).

13

Take two 2¼in grey squares and one

3in x 12½in back­ground strip. Re­peat steps 7–8, this time adding the squares to two ad­ja­cent cor­ners, to add grey CSTs to one end of the strip (Fig 5). Make forty (40) of these strips.

14

Take two 2¼in grey square CSTs. Re­peat step 13 to add grey CSTs to the re­main­ing cor­ners of twenty-four (24) of your 3in x 12½in CST back­ground strip units (Fig 6).

PIEC­ING THE STAR BLOCKS

15

Take four sets of match­ing dark print units and light print units and one 3in black square. Ar­range them as shown (Fig 7). Join into three rows of three, then sew the rows to­gether to com­plete one star block.

16

Re­peat step 15 to make a to­tal of twenty-five (25) star blocks.

AS­SEM­BLING THE QUILT TOP

17

Take two 3in x 12½in back­ground CST strips from step 13 and three 3in x 12½in back­ground CST strips from step 14. Join the strips us­ing a 3in square be­tween the strips (Fig 8). Re­peat this process to make a to­tal of four sash­ing strips.

18 "

Ar­range the star blocks and sash­ing strips into five rows of five, re­fer­ring to the photo. Ar­range the re­main­ing 3in x

12½in back­ground CST strips from step 13 be­tween the blocks in the top and bot­tom rows. Ar­range the re­main­ing 3in x 12½in back­ground CST strips from step 14 be­tween the blocks in the mid­dle rows. Sew the blocks to­gether in rows.

19

Sew the rows to­gether, then sew the 3in x 70½in back­ground strips to each side and the 3in x 75½in back­ground strips to the top and bot­tom to com­plete the quilt top.

QUILT­ING AND FIN­ISH­ING

20

Cut the back­ing fab­ric in half across the width. Re­move the selvedges and re-join the pieces with a ½in seam. Next, press the seam open. 21

Press the quilt top and back­ing well. Make a quilt sand­wich by plac­ing the back­ing fab­ric right side down, the bat­ting on top, then the quilt top cen­trally and right side up. Baste all of the lay­ers to­gether us­ing your pre­ferred method. 22

Quilt as de­sired. Lynne quilted a di­ag­o­nal cross hatch of lines 2in apart Trim off the ex­cess bat­ting and back­ing fab­ric and square up the quilt.

23

Join the bind­ing strips to­gether end-to-end us­ing di­ag­o­nal seams. Press the seams open and trim away each of the dog ears, then fold in half length­wise, WST, and press.

24

Sew the bind­ing to the front of the quilt, fold­ing a mitre at each cor­ner, then fold it over to the back of the quilt and hand stitch in place to fin­ish.

This is a great quilt for us­ing up lots of your fab­ric scraps

!"n#E $%Ld&w%Rt'y Englan lilysquilts.blogspot.co.uk lilysquilts

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