Trou­bleshoot­ing net­work pe­riph­er­als


Nor­mally a sin­gle wire­less ac­cess point has enough range to cover an en­tire house. If you add a Time Cap­sule, you should con­nect it to your router us­ing an Eth­er­net ca­ble and use Air­Port Util­ity to turn off Wi-Fi on the Time Cap­sule. This keeps your home net­work as sim­ple as pos­si­ble. If you have a very large house, or an old one with thick stone walls and lots of nails in the floor­boards, you may need ex­tra Wi-Fi ac­cess points to reach ev­ery room. If you do this, make sure that you turn off the DHCP server on ev­ery de­vice ex­cept for your router. DHCP is the ser­vice that as­signs lo­cal IP ad­dresses to each com­puter on your net­work, and you don’t want two Wi-Fi ac­cess points fight­ing with each other.

Like­wise, only en­able Net­work Ad­dress Trans­la­tion (NAT) on your broad­band router. If two de­vices are us­ing NAT, your net­work will ef­fec­tively be split into two sub­net­works, and some ser­vices such as FaceTime and on­line games might find it hard to reach the in­ter­net across this split.

Some older net­worked drives or print­ers might have been set up with a static IP ad­dress. They work fine un­til you change in­ter­net provider and get a new broad­band router. Then sud­denly you can’t con­nect to them. This is be­cause the new router has a dif­fer­ent de­fault range of IP ad­dresses that are clash­ing with the static ad­dress on your old de­vice. If you can, change the de­vice to use DHCP so it al­ways re­ceives a valid ad­dress from the router. If it doesn’t al­low this, you’ll have to pick a new static IP ad­dress that lies out­side of the range of IP ad­dresses that the router can sup­ply via DHCP. So, if the router con­fig­u­ra­tion page says the DHCP server has an ‘End IP ad­dress’ of, change this to and then as­sign to your prin­ter or net­worked drive.

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