FRA­GRANCES

THE LAT­EST SCENTS FOR SPRINGPRING OF­FER A COM­PLEX­ITY, WARMTH AND SPICINESS NOT AL­WAYS ASSOCIATED WITH RE­LEASES AT THIS TIME OF YEAR,EAR, WRITES Elis­a­beth King.

Men's Style (Australia) - - Contents -

Com­plex­ity and warmth of­fer a point of dif­fer­ence this Spring

Bold usu­ally goes with cold but many of this year’s warm weather fra­grance launches aren’t lightweights. Blame the switch on Bleu de Chanel, the global smash-hit that re-con­firmed the power of woody, musky scents to set women alight whether the weather is hot or brass mon­key. Why? Com­plex scents make a man seem more grounded and mas­cu­line. Here’s a run­down of the new sea­son’s scents that have truly grad­u­ated from col­lege.

1 PENHALIGON’S SAVOY STEAM EAU DE PAR­FUM Lon­don bar­ber William Penhaligon de­vel­oped his first fra­grance in 1871 – Ham­mam Bou­quet – af­ter trim­ming the Shah of Per­sia’s beard. Pow­er­ful as the long-dead po­ten­tate, it’s still a cult favourite. This trib­ute in­ter­pre­ta­tion is less op­u­lent, and is clean, spicy and re­fresh­ing, thanks to rose­mary and gera­nium. A touch of eu­ca­lyp­tus in the dry­down jus­ti­fies the word ‘steam’ in the ti­tle, as in Turk­ish bath. $279 for 100ml; agencede­par­fum.com.au and selected Myer and David Jones stores. 2 AMOUAGE FIGMENT MAN Amouage, founded by the Sul­tan of Oman in the 1980s, is stocked by the cream of the world’s depart­ment stores. Ten years ago, the lux­ury fra­grance brand had a makeover to ap­peal to more in­ter­na­tional tastes but the princely price tag stayed in place. This com­plex woody ori­en­tal is quite a ride from earthy through an­i­malic to warm san­dal­wood and moss. Test on your skin, not a card, be spar­ing and al­low plenty of de­vel­op­ment time be­fore a fi­nal judg­ment. Chal­leng­ing but worth it for the right guy. $446; agencede­par­fum.

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3 COACH MAN Coach re-en­tered the fra­grance arena last year with a women’s scent that raked in mil­lions in the first three months. No stranger to men’s fra­grances, the US bag­maker launched five male juices from 2009 to 2013 but none were backed by ma­jor star power. James Franco, the ar­che­typal cool guy, is the face of this new tilt at the big money. A woody aro­matic spiced with car­damom and co­rian­der, there’s noth­ing stoner about a con­tem­po­rary ur­ban scent that sem­a­phores NYC. From $85; depart­ment stores. 4 MISSONI PAR­FUM POUR HOMME Missoni reached out to young ur­ban males ear­lier this year through a col­lab with cult French sports­wear brand Pi­galle. The Ital­ian her­itage brand is zoom­ing in on more tai­lored types with its first men’s fra­grance in a cou­ple of decades. The twang of Mediter­ranean herbs charges up the heart of this aro­matic woody fougere bol­stered by oak­wood, birch and musk. Gone is the leery outer pack­ag­ing of yore, re­placed with a bur­nished box and dark-tinted bot­tle that sig­nals an on-trend take on pres­tige. $150 for 100ml; ex­clu­sive to David Jones. 5 MONTBLANC EM­BLEM AB­SOLU Warmer and more woody than pre­vi­ous Em­blem fra­grances, this flo­ral ori­en­tal claims to be for au­da­cious types who might as well have the word ‘con­fi­dent’ tat­tooed across their fore­heads in in­vis­i­ble ink. Hype and the flashy gold bot­tle aside, the hot/ cold bal­ance of tim­ber and spices make it an au­to­matic buy for the fans. $120 for 100ml; depart­ment stores.

6 GUCCI GUILTY AB­SO­LUTE Gucci’s Cre­ative Di­rec­tor Alessan­dro Michele spent five years as the lux­ury brand’s leather goods de­sign di­rec­tor. He’s cer­tainly grabbed the bull by the horns with this dark and sexy fra­grance which ranks as the scent equiv­a­lent of the leather in­te­rior of a Porsche. Ace per­fumer Al­berto Mo­ril­las plays to the strength of the hide with an aro­matic blend of patchouli, ve­tiver and cy­press. Wait 30 min­utes be­fore as­sess­ing skin im­pact or you might feel you’ve been whacked by Jeff Horn’s glove. The pri­mal male dry­down isn’t for ev­ery­one and it’s not meant to be. From $108; 1800 812 663. 7 Y BY YVES SAINT LAU­RENT JFK had just been as­sas­si­nated when YSL last rolled out a women’s clas­sic fra­grance sim­ply called Y. Nan­nas wax nos­tal­gic and it’s still in lim­ited pro­duc­tion. There’s also a per­sis­tent green note run­ning through this new men’s juice, billed as the first “white and dark fougere”. A new twist on the pop­u­lar male scent type, it blends berg­amot, gin­ger and gera­nium ab­so­lute (the white as in a clas­sic T-shirt) with fir, am­ber­gris and in­cense (the black as in a din­ner jacket). Sen­sual what­ever time of day you spritz. From $109; depart­ment stores. 8 ROBERTO CAVALLI UOMO SIL­VER ESSENCE Last year’s Uomo kicked off a new fra­grance chap­ter for the vet­eran Ital­ian de­signer – pow­dery, ori­en­tal and flo­ral, yet dark and damp. This fol­low-up is fresher but still rates the woody ori­en­tal la­bel. The open­ing of car­damom and gin­ger ear­marks the juice for Spring ca­sual wear. Lon­glast­ing and head-turn­ing. From $80; David Jones, Myer and selected phar­ma­cies; on counter Septem­ber 10.

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