THE QUINTESSENTIAL QU AMERICAN R RESTAURANT: IN SITU
Chef Ch Corey Lee, who holds three Michelin stars at San Francisco’s Benu, B has become the t unofficial food curator of the SFMOMA, S reopened a year or so ago. His new restaurant, In Situ, will re-create dishes from more than 80 modern culinary masters—an insanely ambitious project you’d find only in the U. S. A. In preparation, Lee studied Gastón Acurio’s Peruvian ceviche and trekked to Hong Kong to master the sea urchin in lobster gelatin by Amber’s Richard Ekkebus. His meticulous research means there’s no need to fly to Denmark to enjoy a dish of carrot, sour curd, and pickled pine, which In Situ borrows from the white-hot restaurant Amass. Take the cash you’ll save and spend it on a cult California cabernet instead.