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Mercury (Hobart) - Magazine - - TRAVEL - WITH TONY LOVE

What is it that de­fines a mod­ern caber­net sauvi­gnon? Through the prism of one of Aus­tralia’s most revered pro­duc­ers, Wynns, cel­e­brat­ing the 60th vin­tage of the famed Coon­awarra Black La­bel Caber­net Sauvi­gnon, we can get close to an an­swer.

Chief wine­maker Sue Hod­der, who is cel­e­brat­ing her 25th vin­tage, says Wynns wines stretch­ing to 1954 form an “in­ter­est­ing part” of Aus­tralia’s wine story – and, more specif­i­cally, the Aus­tralian caber­net story. Af­ter an ex­cerpted tast­ing of 17 vin­tages, this is clearly a great un­der­state­ment.

The “jour­ney” is punc­tu­ated with rev­e­la­tions from spe­cific vin­tage con­di­tions to key wine­mak­ing im­prove­ments such as the way oak is used – though much of the Wynns way with its wines has re­mained in place.

What has de­vel­oped is a Wynns house style, which Hod­der de­scribes as “medi­um­bod­ied with fine tan­nins and bright fruit … suited for ei­ther drink­ing now or cel­lar­ing”. From as far back as 1954 there is an acid­ity that is key to longevity. We see it in the 1965 and again in the 1975, through warm years, cooler years, wet­ter years and drier years.

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