TOW­ING EYE

Mini Magazine - - Tech -

Q What’s the best way to tow a Mini from the front? I have a 1985 Mini auto that re­cently broke down, and it was towed via the front sub­frame beam. Un­for­tu­nately, the sub­frame then cracked by the sta­biliser bar at the front. I’ve since had the front sub­frame re­placed at great ex­pense by a lo­cal spe­cial­ist, but I’m wor­ried in case the same thing hap­pens again. I’ve seen that some Mi­nis have a tow­ing eye fit­ted as stan­dard. Are th­ese up to the job? And are they easy to fit? Jake Duffy A There are in­deed var­i­ous tow­ing eyes avail­able on the mar­ket that are ‘up to the job’. Rover made two types of tow­ing eye. The first one (21A1241) has ba­si­cally a metal hook with the open end of the loop welded to the shank, with a 3/8-inch UNF thread along the ex­tended shank. This re­places the bolt fas­ten­ing the front teardrop mount to the front sub­frame. It needed an ex­tra nut threaded on the shank and a de­cent flat washer be­fore be­ing fit­ted through the mount­ing and sub­frame, then a re­tain­ing nut threaded on to the rear of it. The two nuts clamped the shank tight to the sub­frame. But this tow­ing eye is a lit­tle weedy to say the least. It is okay to get you out of a tight spot, but is rec­om­mended only for use with tow ropes. The later ver­sion (KPU100160) is far more sub­stan­tial. The shank and loop are forged steel, the shank be­ing threaded in­ter­nally. It is there­fore fas­tened in place with a bolt placed through the sub­frame from the rear face, through the tear drop mount­ing and then wound in to the eye’s shank. We have seen var­i­ous other de­signs out there, from Ja­pa­nese spe­cial­ists and the likes of DSN and MiniMail here in the UK. A bit of shop­ping around should get you some­thing that fits the bill.

“There are var­i­ous tow­ing eyes avail­able on the mar­ket that are ‘up to the job’.”

Tow­ing eye.

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