Com­bat­ing mould

Mt Druitt - St Mary's Standard (East) - - TRADE & SERVICES - Laura Tri­este

MOULD may thrive in hot and hu­mid cli­mates but that does not mean our houses are safe from it in win­ter.

No Germs founder Peter Ross says our ten­dency to keep our doors and win­dows shut in the cold weather can be a trig­ger for mould.

“Hu­mid­ity and poor ven­ti­la­tion are the two main causes,” he says.

Us­ing a gas heaters can also in­crease your chance of trig­ger­ing an out­break, even in other parts of the house.

“They ex­pel mois­ture into the air which is pushed into the cool rooms,” Ross says.

The mould and bac­te­ria re­moval or­gan­i­sa­tion’s chief tech­ni­cian has helped fight the health haz­ard in thou­sands of res­i­den­tial prop­er­ties since 2006.

“The most com­mon in homes is the black mould,” Ross says. “Black mould it­self is not harm­ful but it’s the tox­ins that it cre­ates that cause the headaches, the run­ning eyes and the sores.”

Ross says an in­spec­tion of the home is the first step to solv­ing the prob­lem.

“We don’t treat the mould un­til the source has been elim­i­nated,” he says.

Once that has be sorted, the op­tions for treat­ment de­pend on the sever­ity of the mould. Ross says there are a lot of myths about the ef­fec­tive­ness of house­hold clean- ers. “Bleach or chlo­rine does not kill mould, it re­stores the colour,” he says.

Vine­gar can work in milder cases, pro­vided it is used cor­rectly. “You need to use four parts of nat­u­rally fer­mented white vine­gar to one part wa­ter,” he says.

“Spray the af­fected area up to half a me­tre ei­ther side and all around it, leave it for 10 min­utes, spray it again and then wipe it off.”

For more se­ri­ous cases, Ross uses chlo­rine diox­ide to fu­mi­gate the house.

“We gas the place, se­cure it, come back four hours later and ven­ti­late the premises,” he says. Find more in­for­ma­tion at

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