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Tak­ing con­trol of the shut­ter speed gives you the abil­ity to freeze or blur mo­tion

NPhoto - - 10 Things To Master -

Choos­ing whether to cap­ture mov­ing sub­jects as sharply as pos­si­ble, or with some blur, is a crit­i­cal. For max­i­mum sharp­ness you’ll need a fast shut­ter speed, usu­ally 1/500 sec or less. At th­ese speeds there needs to be plenty of light, or you have to in­crease the ISO (see page 38). ap­pear static, so you need to use this tech­nique with care. For the best re­sults there needs to be some as­pect of the sub­ject that im­plies move­ment, so look for mo­ments when your sub­ject leaves the ground, kicks up dust or spray, or is in a po­si­tion that would be im­pos­si­ble if it were stand­ing still.

When us­ing fast shut­ter speeds to freeze move­ment, you need to watch the aper­ture dis­played in the viewfinder, and if it starts to flash (and the ex­po­sure scale dis­plays a neg­a­tive value), it means that there isn’t enough light for a cor­rect ex­po­sure, even at the widest aper­ture avail­able on your lens. In this case you will need to set a higher ISO – do it in stages un­til the dis­play stops flash­ing. Nikon SLRs of­fer max­i­mum shut­ter speeds of 1/4000 sec or even 1/8000 sec, but th­ese speeds are rarely use­ful in real-world sit­u­a­tions. Most mov­ing sub­jects can be frozen by speeds of 1/2000 sec or slower, and you’ll need ex­tremely bright con­di­tions, a wide aper­ture and a high ISO set­ting to use shut­ter speeds faster than this. It’s much bet­ter to use high-speed flash to freeze sub­jects like wa­ter splashes or other ex­tremely fast-mov­ing ob­jects.

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