You’ll need to rethink af, RA W and more
Shooting video means resorting to manual focus, and also exposing more accurately, as there’s no processing safety net
Autofocus and auto-exposure may sound like a good idea, but they usually ruin a
video shot. The first causes the lens to jump around while searching for focus and the second can cause annoying fluctuations in brightness. It’s usually much better to focus the lens manually first and then, using Live View, adjust the shutter speed, aperture or ISO until the level of brightness looks good. As mentioned on the previous page, the one exception is a subjective camera shot like a walkthrough.
If possible, shoot a dry run first – a short clip is fine – and play it back to check that you’re happy with your focus and exposure. Any highlight clipping warning shows only at the beginning of playback, not while you’re filming or actually playing back. Try to avoid over-exposing the scene or clipping highlights; you can’t recover detail in them later as you’re not filming in RAW, but you can compensate a bit for under-exposure. Also, dark shots ‘read’ much better with a moving image than they do in a still image, as the movement helps the eye to understand what’s happening within the frame.
On the left you can see a solid set-up suitable for a planned, ‘locked-off shot’ with a sturdy tripod. The camera fits into an aluminium ‘cage’ rig – it’s protective, cuts out vibrations, and has fittings for several attachments. The set-up on the right, meanwhile, gives me two audio recording options: a Tascam Recorder fitted with a fluffy windshield for ambient noise, and a medium-angled shotgun mike also fitted with a windshield for recording action taking place directly in front of the camera