You’ll need to re­think af, RA W and more

Shoot­ing video means re­sort­ing to man­ual fo­cus, and also ex­pos­ing more ac­cu­rately, as there’s no pro­cess­ing safety net

NPhoto - - Nikopedia -

Aut­o­fo­cus and auto-ex­po­sure may sound like a good idea, but they usu­ally ruin a

video shot. The first causes the lens to jump around while search­ing for fo­cus and the sec­ond can cause an­noy­ing fluc­tu­a­tions in bright­ness. It’s usu­ally much bet­ter to fo­cus the lens man­u­ally first and then, us­ing Live View, ad­just the shut­ter speed, aper­ture or ISO un­til the level of bright­ness looks good. As men­tioned on the pre­vi­ous page, the one ex­cep­tion is a sub­jec­tive cam­era shot like a walk­through.

If pos­si­ble, shoot a dry run first – a short clip is fine – and play it back to check that you’re happy with your fo­cus and ex­po­sure. Any high­light clip­ping warn­ing shows only at the be­gin­ning of play­back, not while you’re film­ing or ac­tu­ally play­ing back. Try to avoid over-ex­pos­ing the scene or clip­ping high­lights; you can’t re­cover de­tail in them later as you’re not film­ing in RAW, but you can com­pen­sate a bit for un­der-ex­po­sure. Also, dark shots ‘read’ much bet­ter with a mov­ing im­age than they do in a still im­age, as the move­ment helps the eye to un­der­stand what’s hap­pen­ing within the frame.

On the left you can see a solid set-up suit­able for a planned, ‘locked-off shot’ with a sturdy tri­pod. The cam­era fits into an alu­minium ‘cage’ rig – it’s pro­tec­tive, cuts out vi­bra­tions, and has fit­tings for sev­eral at­tach­ments. The set-up on the right, mean­while, gives me two au­dio record­ing op­tions: a Tas­cam Recorder fit­ted with a fluffy wind­shield for am­bi­ent noise, and a medium-an­gled shot­gun mike also fit­ted with a wind­shield for record­ing ac­tion tak­ing place di­rectly in front of the cam­era

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