Shoot into the sun

If the light’s right, you can put flares back in fash­ion!

NPhoto - - Nikon Skills -

01 Broaden your hori­zons

On a sunny evening, find an open lo­ca­tion, as for this tech­nique to work the sun needs to be near the hori­zon, with a di­rect line of sight to your cam­era. To see when and where the sun will set in your lo­ca­tion, visit http://sun­calc.net/

02 Get down low

If the sun is still a lit­tle high, try get­ting down low. We laid down in some tall grass to place the sun be­hind the model, and al­lowed the grass to in­trude in front of the lens to add spots of blurry high­lights and en­hance that in­ti­mate mood.

03 Watch the back­ground

Place the model be­tween your cam­era and sun. The flare will wash over your model. Be aware of the back­ground, too: we also used an oak tree to help il­lu­mi­nate the back­ground, as the back­light on the leaves was par­tic­u­larly pretty.

04 Bounce the light

Set your cam­era to aper­ture-pri­or­ity mode. If you ex­pose for the sun­light, the model will be too dark. Set some pos­i­tive ex­po­sure com­pen­sa­tion to brighten the model, and bounce light in us­ing a re­flec­tor so you have a bal­anced ex­po­sure.

05 Add haze

So-called veil­ing flare is the haze that seeps into the frame from the sides. Al­low it to fade as it reaches your sub­ject so you have a clear view of them. It can and should over­lap your sub­ject, but en­sure you can still see them through the haze.

06 Step aside

If the flare ob­scures your sub­ject, move the light source to the edge of the frame by step­ping to one side. By mov­ing slightly, the ghost­ings are pushed to the op­po­site side of the frame, but, again, make sure you don’t cover up faces.

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