14 Meyers Place, Melbourne; (03) 9650 5525 santelmo.com.au Open seven days for lunch and dinner There’s plenty of bovine action at Argentinian-themed San Telmo and only some of it is on the plates. The gaucho fit-out features cowhides on the walls, staff are clad in leather aprons and you really can’t miss the blazing parrilla (wood grill) near the entrance, where steaks are licked by flame before making their merry way to the table, perhaps in the company of inventive sides such as fried broccoli with pecorino or burnt carrots daubed with goat’s curd and thyme. Yep, San Telmo is the fully rounded meat specialist (there’s half a wood-roasted chicken with minced garlic; chipotle-andcoriander-spiced lamb rump) but it also has plenty of lovin’ for the non-meat crowd. As for the beef, it’s free-range, pasture-fed and dry-aged on the bone, with an appropriately intense flavour. Just add chimichurri.