Anne Raber

Ho­tel de Rome, Berlin

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A restau­rant that’s re­ally pop­u­lar with lo­cals is… Lode & Stijn (lode-stijn.de), just off the canal in Kreuzberg. It serves a five-course menu with beef tartare, her­ring roe, cod and veal. I dream of their Be­lyz­ium choco­late crème and blood­or­ange sor­bet. And a restau­rant that shows off Berlin is… Katz Orange (kat­zo­r­ange.com). It’s hid­den in the Neo-Gothic back­yard of a for­mer brew­ery and has quite a bo­hemian at­mos­phere. They slow-roast their Duroc pork for 12 hours and it’s to die for. For a busi­ness meet­ing, I book… Pauly Saal (paulysaal.com). It’s housed in a for­mer Jewish girls’ school and has a great bar, ter­race and beau­ti­ful din­ing room. But it’s the food at this Miche­lin restau­rant that’s most im­pres­sive. Try the lo­cal game. If you want a night­club ex­pe­ri­ence, go to… Kater Blau (katerblau.de), be­side the Spree River. It’s a hole-in-the-wall bar with fab­u­lous house and techno mu­sic, pretty de­cent food and a large out­door area. My favourite break­fast place is… Hall­mann & Klee (hall­mann-klee. de), where mod­ern com­fort food meets gourmet fare. Ger­mans love their bread and here, freshly baked and served with but­ter and fleur de sel [flower of salt], it’s de­li­cious. Try the in­sanely fluffy pan­cakes with maple syrup, roasted nuts and blue­ber­ries. The best cof­fee is found at… Dou­ble Eye (dou­ble­eye.de). I’ve been go­ing there for 15 years and peo­ple still queue out­side. Drink your espresso and eat pastéis de nata [Por­tuguese cus­tard tarts] while sit­ting out­side on a chair, ob­serv­ing the street life. On a lazy week­end, visit… Win­ter­feld (win­ter­feld-berlin.de); it’s the place to go on Satur­days. I grab a glass of freshly squeezed juice then head to Bauer Lindner (bauer­lind­ner.berlin) for lamb sausage. Fi­nally, the most dif­fi­cult de­ci­sion of all: strudel or can­noli? For de­signer fash­ion, I rec­om­mend… the Les d’Arcs (les­darcs.com) show­room in Pankow. I re­cently stum­bled across this la­bel by lo­cals Jess Kahlke and Anna In­gen­sand, who cre­ate ex­tra­or­di­nary scarves and uni­sex pieces. And for vin­tage fash­ion, check out… Aura (au­raber­lin.com) for beau­ti­ful ki­monos from the 1920s to ’80s. Then visit West Berlin, where you’ll find up­scale de­signer fash­ion at Madonna & Adon (madonna-adon.de) on Momm­sen­strasse. My favourite store is Lunettes Se­lec­tion (lunettes-se­lec­tion.de) for vin­tage sunglasses. You’ll find the per­fect gift or me­mento at… Bikini Berlin (bikiniber­lin.de). It’s a trendy con­cept mall with pop-up stores and of­ten hosts art in­stal­la­tions. Up­stairs, on the Mon­key Bar’s open-air ter­race [atop the 25hours Ho­tel in the Bikini com­plex], you can get a cof­fee and wave at the real mon­keys in the nearby zoo. If it’s rain­ing, re­lax at… Va­bali Spa (va­bali.de), where “ze Ger­mans” get naked. There’s plenty of space in this Ba­li­nese-in­spired spa. The city’s best out­door ex­pe­ri­ence is… the Ber­liner Phil­har­moniker orches­tra’s last con­cert of the sea­son [on July 1] in the Wald­bühne am­phithe­atre. Bring a food bas­ket – and Cham­pagne.

(From top) Miche­lin­starred restau­rant Pauly Saal; Lode & Stijn’s beef tartare on toasted sour­dough with an­chovies and chicory salad with lin­seeds and oys­ters

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