EZARD AT LEVANTINE HILL
882 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream levantinehill.com.au Designed by the hatted restaurant’s chef, Teage Ezard, the five- and eight-course dégustation menus with matching Levantine Hill wines are meticulously crafted and, quite simply, lots of fun. The Ōra King salmon arrives at the table under a cloche filled with smoke, the delicate dish only revealed when the smoke disappears. The “cheese on toast” emulsion, with a slippery, slow-cooked poached egg, is a strange and satisfying spoonful. And the chocolate dessert, served with malt icecream, flash-fried pumpkin seeds and judicious drops of pedro ximénez gel, is a perfect mix of sweet and crunchy. Set aside at least two hours for five courses or, if you’re pushed for time, opt for the more casual all-day menu available in another part of the restaurant.