CONTENTIOUS CHARACTER

810 Norton Road, Wamboin contentiouscharacter.com.au There’s no shortage of options in Canberra proper for the first bite and brew of the day, be it the homely confines of Mocan and Green Grout (mocanand greengrout.com) or the buzzy Cupping Room (thecupping room.com.au). But if you want to throw yourself into the middle of the vines from the get-go, book a table at Contentious Character, about 30 minutes’ drive east of the city. Set on a hill amid eight hectares of vineyards, the restaurant has recently introduced a brunch menu that is small but sharp. Order the whisky-cured salmon and scrumptious poached eggs on crusty sourdough.