MARKET EATING HOUSE

Walking into this bare-brick, Edison bulbfestooned space at prime time is to witness a dining room at full flight (and volume). A custom-made charcoal grill and woodfired oven dominates the kitchen, while Brenton Pyke’s cooking draws inspiration from the Middle East. Whether he’s grilling chicken wings and serving them alongside a harissa- and dill-enriched yoghurt or transforming wood-roasted eggplant into baba ganoush of a higher order, the chef’s energy levels are set to high. Skewers of smoky cuttlefish with a preserved-lime mayonnaise are typical of the producedriven specials (and you should always ask about the specials). And the wine list? Expect drops from the cellars of boutique Geographe vignerons.