More a standalone hilltop village than a bed for the night, Mandapa, a RitzCarlton Reserve hotel (hotel.qantas. com.au/mandapa) is a master of elegant luxury and spaciousness. The 60 suites and villas are terraced over a sprawling, lush landscape, which manages to feel both intimate and majestic. Obliging staff in golf carts are on hand to whisk guests to and fro but walking is best for admiring the calming views. Guests using Mandapa’s eponymous spa can take post-treatment ginger tea in an exclusive relaxation suite fronting the Ayung River, while the valley vista at reception – particularly on a cool, misty morning – is something else. Equally photogenic is the food served at Kubu, the hotel’s signature modern European restaurant.