Signature Luxury Travel & Style

ULURU

The Red Centre is Australia at its most iconic and to visit here is to embrace this ancient land’s spiritual past. Longitude 131° honours Uluru’s significan­ce with moving guest experience­s, as Cathy Wagstaff discovers.

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Star-filled skies, red earth underfoot and superlativ­e views at Longitude 131°

The desert sky is clear, the night lit by a full moon and a canopy of stars. My bed for the night is a double swag, set up on the deck of my tented pavilion at Longitude 131°. Alongside is a tray with bottles of cognac, port and Baileys, leather labels around their necks, and a bowl of popcorn. Before me is an uninterrup­ted view of Uluru, serene in the moonlight.

Every Australian should see Uluru, and there is no finer way to do so than waking up to admire its rosy sunrise hue under the canopy of one of the 16 tented pavilions at Longitude 131°.

This boutique resort – a member of the Luxury Lodges of Australia and one of the family-owned Baillie Lodges group since 2013 – is a special place where the detail is everything. James and Hayley Baillie know this, and it’s why the lodge closed for four months last year to receive its most dramatic transforma­tion yet. As part of the makeover, the Dune House that serves as the resort hub was expanded, the pool was reimagined as a modern outback billabong, Spa Kinara was added, and the Dune Top panoramic deck appeared.

The singular two-bedroom Dune Pavilion also made its debut at the reopening. The contempora­ry homestead is a design triumph from architect Max Pritchard, who previously collaborat­ed with Baillie Lodges on Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island. In a first for Australia, it offers views of both Uluru and Kata Tjuta, which can be admired from the comfort of your bed or, perhaps more decadently, from the bathtub.

On the deck, a daybed is ready for the stargazing swag turndown service and a circular plunge pool looks inviting in the midday sun.

Art and country

The incorporat­ion of the Aboriginal culture into the fabric of the resort is one of the most striking things about Longitude 131°. From the moment I arrive, I am surrounded by Indigenous art. When Baillie Lodges took over, Hayley Baillie sought to honour the traditiona­l crafts of Uluru, Alice Springs and the nearby Anangu Pitjantjat­jara Yankunytja­tjara (APY) Lands. Five years later, her purchases and commission­s are an ongoing labour of love.

The works are more vibrant than I had expected (apparently this is distinctiv­e of the APY Lands), and I’m particular­ly entranced with a canvas representi­ng the Kungkarang­kalpa or ‘Seven Sisters’ story by four of the Ken sisters from Tjala Arts Centre in the Amata Indigenous Community. Even the 500 or so handpainte­d tiles that adorn the Dune House bar have a story. The spinifex design comes from Marceena Jack, a 19-year-old artist from Australia’s oldest arts centre, Ernabella Arts Indigenous Community. And it’s not just Longitude 131° buying the artwork; guests are invited to take home a souvenir with Ernabella ceramics and other masterpiec­es available for purchase.

Art-loving guests can even choose a Bespoke Experience to visit the closed community of Ernabella, flying down to meet the artists at their remote studio to see how techniques are passed down through the generation­s and understand the strength of this ancient culture.

Meetings with Uluru

As the afternoon cools, I head out for my first encounter with the monolith that brought me here. At a distance, Uluru is imposing. Up close, it’s surprising­ly nuanced. The flora that flourishes in its shadow changes as we walk along the base and the brilliant ochre hues I had expected is more of a reddish-grey. We finish our stroll at Kantju Gorge with drinks and canapés. Above us, the Rock glows brilliant red in the setting sun.

Most walks set off first thing in the morning to take advantage of milder temperatur­es, so sunrise the next day sees me walking in awe through Walpa Gorge. When we emerge, the domes of Kata Tjuta (Pitjantjat­jara for ‘many heads’) have me reaching for my camera.

My favourite view, however, is out the large, curved windows of Profession­al Helicopter Services’ Eurocopter as we take off en route to Ayers Rock Airport to circle Uluru. From this vantage, you can feel the vastness of the landscape, swallowing the lodge and its surrounds into red dust and spinifex.

Spiritual experience

When the heat just gets too much, escape to Spa Kinara. The building, made of rusted steel, takes its inspiratio­n from traditiona­l wiltja shelters, while the menu uses LI’TYA products that call on the wisdom of Aboriginal healing techniques.

My relaxing Kodo Massage begins with a smoking ritual that clears the energy and transports me to my spiritual place.

This connection continues as we return to Uluru at sunset, this time to walk through the 50,000 glowing stems that make up Bruce Munro’s mesmerisin­g art installati­on, Field of Light. We then have dinner under the stars at Table 131°, an open-air restaurant nestled among the dunes. Executive chef Jonathan Bryant incorporat­es native ingredient­s such as lemon myrtle, pepperberr­y, desert lime and quandong into his dishes, creating a dining experience that ties

you to the landscape. That is ultimately the enduring appeal of Longitude 131°. No matter where you are on the property, the pull of the landscape and the landmark is inescapabl­e. From the architectu­re to the art, the lodge marks itself as a celebratio­n of Australia’s spirit, past, present and future.

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 ??  ?? 03 01 Uluru at sunrise is a spectacula­r view to wake up to 02 Walking around the base of Uluru is a meaningful experience 03 The Rock glows red in the sun 04 The Dune Pavilion at Longitude 131°05 Dune Top dining. All images © Longitude 131°
03 01 Uluru at sunrise is a spectacula­r view to wake up to 02 Walking around the base of Uluru is a meaningful experience 03 The Rock glows red in the sun 04 The Dune Pavilion at Longitude 131°05 Dune Top dining. All images © Longitude 131°
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